Friday, September 23, 2011

Will my heater and A/C work if my water pump is bad?

The weep hole is not leaking. The pump does not squeal. I've changed the thermostat and bled the radiator of air, however the hose from the pump remains cold as well as the upper radiator hose. It does not overheat when idling but when I drive it, it overheats pretty quickly. No heat, no A/C, no heater core leaking or smelling.

I'm trying to single out the water pump and after that, a blown head gasket.
Will my heater and A/C work if my water pump is bad?
When you start with a cold engine, open the radiator cap full with coolant. Leave cap off and start car. You should see the water kind of dribbling past the opening until the thermostat is supposed to open, about ten minutes, then the water should rush past the opening fast from the pressure of the water pump. If it doesn't there is a problem with the water pump.

A/C should work because it's on a completely different system then the heater except the ductwork under the dash. Each system runs without the other.
Will my heater and A/C work if my water pump is bad?
Your heater will not work efficiently, or at all, if your water pump is bad. Your AC will be fine.

But I recommend changing your water pump ASAP. Your engine will overheat.
a simple check to see if your water pump is working is to take your radiator cap off, start your car (your car should be sitting for a while before you do this)...when the temp gage starts going up, you should see water flow in the radiator from the water pump..if you do not, your pump is shot . if you do, you need a new thermostat

2002 GA SE1 3.4 V6 cooling fans not working, overheats?

2002 GA SE1 3.4 V6 130,000 miles. This car is overheating. Cooling fans are not kicking on. (Even with the A/C on) Coolant comes out of the reservoir overflow hose. Here are the things I have done:

New Thermostat and new reservoir %26quot;pressure%26quot; cap

Bled air out of system.

Pressure tested system-holds PSI steady

Checked every fuse and swapped out every fuse at all 3 fuse/relay boxes.

Checked and OHMed the relays and also numbered and swapped their positions at the underhood fuse box/relay panel.

When I jump the #1 and #2 cooling fan circuits (relays) at the underhood fuse /realy block the fans will turn on and run.

When the temp guage hits about 220 the antifreeze pukes out the overflow hose and I did notice that the lower rad hose collapses and pinches shut.

So, do I have a bad PCM?? I know I need a new lower radiator hose (plan on changing upper also) Also, I am going to pull the water pump to inspect it.

If you have any other ideas please let me know!!

Oh, also I hooked up my code scanner to the car and it comes up clean.

2002 GA SE1 3.4 V6 cooling fans not working, overheats?
might as well change out water pump because they're cheap. i was wondering what the coolant temp reads on the scan tool? maybe you have a bad temp sensor. also bleed system again to check for residual air pockets.

97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?

At this point I think it's safe to rule out the replacement radiators being bad. I will change the radiator out again, there is a 2 year waranty on them so i'm not getting hosed there, and get a mechanic to check the pressure in the cooling system. After that I just looking for any other ideas as to what else could be causing these radiators to go bad so quickly.
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
I am assuming you know for a fact it is the radiator, and not something else leaking...

Head gasket leaking combustion gases into the cooling system, over pressurizing it... Fuel warmer leaking into system doing the same... just a few that come to mind.

Just FYI - I have had numerous bad aftermarket radiators come into our shop that were %26quot;bad%26quot; straight out of the box... I mean NUMEROUS... So don't be too quick to rule it out.
97 ford F-250 radiator problems: changed radiator 3X. what could be causing these radiators to start leaking?
are you sure its the radiator thats leaking. just a guess
I'm assuming you have 5.8L engine??

Have you inspected all the hoses??

The small one for the expansion tank (being mounted on the top of the rad.) isn't leaking %26amp; dripping somewhere??

The large ones have no corrosion on the inside where they mount to the rad??

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  • Radiator and antifreeze problem.... Please Help?

    I have a 1994 Dodge Ram Van B250, 6cyl with a/c, 201000 miles

    i have changed.....





    Freeze Plug side of engine, front


    Serpentine Belt // Gator



    Radiator flush, added Prestone Yellow antifreeze

    I still get no heat. There are absolutly no leaks anywhere.

    My mechanic says that when he poured the antifreeze in it went down to slow. He asked me if my Hot / cold needle is on the low side.

    He told me to change my radiator because it is probably clogged and he cant fix that. He said it will make my needle go up a little more and i should have heat.

    is that true. and is there something out there i can use to clean out all the sludge in my radiator to unclog it.
    Radiator and antifreeze problem.... Please Help?
    you can tell if the radiator is clogged!. after you have driven it, shut it down and feel the radiator, next to the fan and all over the radiator, if you feel cold spots, then its partially clogged. i found that prestone super flush does a pretty good job.
    Radiator and antifreeze problem.... Please Help?
    replace it, when the engine is at normal temp both heater core hose sould be hot. maybe they is air in the system and needs to be berped
    When you say there are no leaks anywhere I assume you had the radiator pressure tested.....right? 201000 miles on this vehicle...I am going to assume that you have the original radiator.....if so replace it with a new or rebuilt one.....not extremly expensive....make sure the correct theromostat was put in your van....does it take a 160 or 180 degree t/stat??? Makes a the heater core the original? If so, I suspect a problem there also. Take this van to a good mechanic or shop that does heating/cooling are being misled somewhere.....
    back flush heater core. radiator flow will cool antifreeze
    Replace your radiator if its VERY corroded, other wise you could back flush it. Jobbers sell back flush kits. But if this were so, you'd be having alot of problems - overheating for one...

    Have you checked your fan clutch?

    Are you positive the t-stat is the correct part?

    somebody monkey'd around with your car, i bet its your mechanic. that's alot of work to find a heating problem
    Looking at the shopping list above, what you may want to check out are the vent doors that control the airflow under the dash. If they are vacuum controlled, there maybe a broken vacuum line or one of the doors may be jammed shut.

    Also make sure you have the correct heat range on the t/stat. That year vehicle needs a 195 degree to properly operate the emission controls. Also check to see if you have the proper fan installed on the front of the engine with the correct number of blades as well as the fan clutch.

    If all else fails, try experimenting with some cardboard in front of the radiator. Start with SMALL pieces and keep adding until you get some heat without overheating the engine. This is the same principle that over the road truckers use to keep the heat in their engines.
    No you need to replace it.
    The purpose of the radiator is not to make you warm, but to cool the engine. There is a heater that looks similar to a small radiator. It may be that for some reason the antifreeze is not getting to the heater, or the heater itself may need replacing.
    your heater core is probably blocked somewhere.
    if the heater core is plugged you will have to reverse the flow of water through it by disconnecting both lines and hooking a water line to the end were the water come out and flush everything out

    Or ask auto Zone see what they think

    My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?

    I have a 1997 Mitsubishi 3000 GT, for some reason it keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank, after you turn on the car and drive it for 20 or 30 mins, I come to a stop I see that it is releasing the water from the hose on the reserve tank. I have already taken the car to a mechanic and 600 dollars later I am still having the problem, the following are components which I have already changed, radiator, thermostat, cooling fan thermostat switch, top and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor router. The only thing that鈥檚 left is the water pump. I have checked the oil and it does not seem to be mixing with the coolant. Any suggestions.
    My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
    sounds like a head gasket leaking a pressurising the radiator.usually when its over 175,000 miles.
    My car keeps losing coolant from the reserve tank after it warms up?
    I assume you are not filling the reservoir tank to the top. Full is usually half way or less on the tank when cold this allows for expansion of the coolant when it gets hot, if you fill it cold it will run out. If you are not then I would remove the radiator cap (when cold) start it up and check for constant bubbles which would indicate a head gasket. Also if your heater works fine then I would look else where before the water pump.
    The level on the coolant reservoir will always go down a bit while the car is running, that's 'cause the engine will pull in all that liquid in but, once the engine is off, some coolant will slowly come back to the reservoir, if you pour too much coolant in the reservoir, this container will dump some of it out thru an attached hose on the reservoir itself. You shouldn't worry much about this issue unless you see the temperature gauge in your car going over...if you car over heats then you have a problem.
    One possibility is an air lock in your coolant system, this happens when you had a coolant change and it was not bled properly. As the engine gets hot the air in the system pushes the coolant out to the overflow bottle/ reserve tank.

    My suggestion is to completely drain the coolant again (to bleed it properly involves tilting the car to the opposite side of the drain plug and switching the heater to max setting to release coolant in heater matrix). Another thing is always do a 50/50 mixture of water and coolant as too much water in your coolant system will just burn away or evaporate.

    How likely is it to get ripped off by an auto mechanic?

    I've heard of this before. I live in a small town and there is only one car shop nearby. I took my car in the other day for a routine oil change and when I came to pick it up they told me that I needed new radiator hoses, two new tires, and some part of my axle (heads, hammers, something like that) that totaled around 1000 bucks. My car has been driving fine and continues to do so, but I know nothing about cars, so I'm curious as to whether or not I could be getting lied to.
    How likely is it to get ripped off by an auto mechanic?
    I used to work as a mechanic, and while there are dishonest mechanics out there, the fact that you're asking this question indicates that you're fairly ignorant about automobile maintenance. I don't mean that in a bad way, but not everybody knows how to check radiator hoses, brakes, etc. As a mechanic, you see people all the time who don't know or care about automotive maintenance. Their cars are barely roadworthy. So you take your car to the mechanic for an oil change, and while he's under there, he's looking for worn items. This doesn't necessarily mean he's trying to rip you off, he is doing his job.

    Let's put it another way - You take your car in for an oil change, and three days later, you blow a radiator hose, and are stuck on the side of the road in the middle of the night, or in the middle of a desert or on a busy freeway. You'll go back to this shop and ream the mechanic for not bringing this worn out hose to your attention. Do you feel ripped off now?

    Now, how to keep from getting ripped off? Any reputable, honest mechanic will take the time to show you what work he thinks needs to be done, and explain why it needs to be done and what could happen if it isn't replaced/repaired.

    My advice is, talk to the mechanic, don't assume he's trying to rip you off, but educate yourself a little so you'll know whether he is legitimately concerned about your safety or if he's trying to make a fast buck off you. If he is being honest, them figure out which repair is the most urgent, and get that done, then the next urgent, etc.

    Or, buy yourself a new car and then you won't have to worry about this for a few years.
    How likely is it to get ripped off by an auto mechanic?
    you probably could but if the car runs fine and the are no warning lights or it doesn't ride rough then chances are that there arent any problems
    Who can say? How old is the car, what kind of condition is it in? How many miles are on the car?

    If you don't want the work done, then take the information under advisement and only get the oil change. A new filter and oil should only run about 20-30 bucks.

    Get a second opinion on the other work. Ask someone at work, or a family friend to take a look at your car and get you their suggestions. good luck.
    Very likely that you are being lied to.However, if you do have them work on it, make sure that when you have parts replaced that they show you the old parts and show to you what they have done.
    Take it slow and only have one more lower cost repair done by them that really needs doing. Then compare what they do to your car dealer's quoted cost for the same repair.
    My best bet , dont take the car for long drive., if the guy sound serious to you). . and if in the morning start the car and there white or black smoke coming from tail pipe, then you do have something wrong in inside the engine.... but take my word... for an old car like your, alway change the timing bet first... alway. because if that breaks.. your go-kart is done... bye -changes it now-
    If you have doubts, take it to another shop for a second opinion. Once you find a mechanic you trust, give him/her all of your business.

    There are dishonest people in all lines of work, usually the little guy down the street will tend to be more honest.

    The only time I can remember being ripped off on repairs was by a local Cadillac / Buick dealer.
    If you don't trust the person's recommendations, then take it to a different place for your next oil change. If they tell you the same thing I would lean toward the first person being honest. Some things (such as tires) it should be quite evident if the tires are worn to a point that they are unsafe. New radiator hoses are recommended after various lengths of time. It is a judgment call in most cases. Education %26amp; asking questions will help you make a good decision.
    The chances are good that you're being lied to, and you're most certainly being taken for a ride. There's no real reason radiator hoses, two tires and common failure parts on an axle, front or rear wheel drive, should total up towards $1,000.

    Pop the hood and identify the radiator hoses. They'll be the big, usually black, rubber hoses leading from the very front of your car, where the radiator is, to the engine. Are they ALOT bigger towards where they connect, compared to the rest of the hose? If yes, then your hoses are older and will need to be replaced at some point, but it's not immediate.

    Look at your tires. There are wear indicators that go across the tire, opposite of the tread pattern. Are you very close to these wear indicators? If not, you don't need new tires.

    When it comes to the axle, without knowing whether it's front wheel drive or rear wheel drive, it's hard to guess what you might be talking about with %26quot;heads%26quot; or %26quot;hammers%26quot;.
    I have a big distrust for mechanics in general. I work with them on a daily basis. Some of them are the kind of people to order parts for a machine, then never installing them. Some don't know how to troubleshoot, so what they do is replace parts with the intention of hopefully eliminating the problem. Usually if you live in a small town word gets around on the mechanic faster than a big town. It also depends on you, are you the natural cheapskate? If a person has a legitamate reason to need to replace something like your brakes, then you don't want to replace them; don't become upset. The best thing to do is learn some basic car care skills to save yourself some money. If you have a friend or a family member who can identify what is worn out. Get a second opinion from them. Your car may run fine now, but there is the potential of problems to arise.
    Being the only repairer in the town, I think he would be taking a big risk ripping off a customer, word travels fast, and could quickly see him closing down.

    Ask around, people in your street or at work must have used him, see if they think they got a good deal?

    Hoses are cheap and quick to fit, see how much he charges for that, get him to quote on each item separately.

    I have a 97' 528i wont take antifreeze keeps kicking it back up unless i undo upper hose!!!!?

    i flushed the radiator yesterday and attempted to put fluid back in but it wont take it without the upper hose off...I just had the thermostat,water pump and radiator changed and after having mechanic look at it found out I dont have a blown head front fan wont kick on either so I'm confused and need answers please help!!!!
    I have a 97' 528i wont take antifreeze keeps kicking it back up unless i undo upper hose!!!!?
    The motor is cold, so the thermostat is closed. It won't let the air escape and the coolant get down into the block. Just go slow, with the engine running, and it'll eventually take it. When it seems full, fill the expansion tank completely. As the system heats-%26amp;-cools, the last little air bubbles will work outta the system when hot, %26amp; suck more coolant from the expansion tank as it cools. Might take a couple of expansion tanks refills to work all the air outta the system.

    The electric fan is controlled by a temperature sensor somewhere, and the fan also only works when the system is hot.
    I have a 97' 528i wont take antifreeze keeps kicking it back up unless i undo upper hose!!!!?
    There is a bleed screw on top of the tank where you put in the coolant you have to remove/loosen that screw to add coolant.

    The fan has a temp switch that could be bad. The fan should come on when the A/C is on, if it doesn't you have a bad fan or something else.

    Are Valve cover gasket leaks common in cars?

    Is it also preparing for another problem if I already replaced it? What do I need to do to make sure this doesn't happen again!!?

    It was leaking yesterday and had to replace it.

    Also did my timing belt and radiator hose... My 03' Chrysler Sebring has 146 k on it so it needed a change.
    Are Valve cover gasket leaks common in cars?
    Valve cover leaks are not as common as they used to be but they still do

    leak on occasion. It is nothing to really worry about, get a new gasket and

    re-seal the cover making sure to tighten the bolts evenly and not heavy-handed.
    Are Valve cover gasket leaks common in cars?
    The trick to prevent leaks is to be absolutely sure the valve cover gasket surface is clean and flat before you start. Likewise the cylinder head must be clean and dry. Spray both gasket surfaces with CRC Brake Clean before going to the next step. Run a bead of Loctite Blue Gasket maker silicone cement around the cylinder head gasket surface and the valve cover gasket surface. Place the *Fel-Pro (brand name) valve cover gasket on the cylinder head and carefully place the valve cover on the gasket and head. * The secret of sealing the surfaces is not to over-tighten the valve cover bolts. Tighten them a small amount at a time following then around the valve cover 2-3 times.
    sure it,s common on all cars when they start to get miles on them. i had to change the back valve pan gasket on my oldsmobile.
    if you got a car it wil leak at valve cover thats how common

    replace gasket when it leaks and yes it wil happen again yours lasted ten years thats great
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  • My 93 mirage overheats, i just changed the thermostat,and it doesnt leak nowhere,can it be the radiator clogg?

    when the car is at normal op-temp the hoses just feel like high pressure air is in them.How do I check the radiator for any cloggs?
    My 93 mirage overheats, i just changed the thermostat,and it doesnt leak nowhere,can it be the radiator clogg?
    You need to make sure that you have removed all the air from the system by bleeding it. I just start the car and pour the coolant in with it running. Do this until the coolant will no longer drop in the radiator. If this doesnt help start looking for engine oil in the radiator or coolant in the oil, it could be a blown head gasket.
    My 93 mirage overheats, i just changed the thermostat,and it doesnt leak nowhere,can it be the radiator clogg?
    Sounds like you have air in the cooling system.

    If you don't have a bleeder valve for the cooling system, just remove the radiator cap, start the car and keep refilling the coolant, you should see the water circulating, if not, the thermostat is in backwards.

    Bmw 740il heats up in ten minutes?

    my bmw 740il heats up in ten minutes. but i already changed the radiator, upper hose, thermostat, valve cover gasket, water pump, battery. but the engine still gets hot n fast. can someone help me.
    Bmw 740il heats up in ten minutes?
    did you change the head gaskets on it?
    Bmw 740il heats up in ten minutes?
    head gasket!!

    Radiator Thermostat?

    I live in Scottsdale Arizona and I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 and It has been overheating I have changed the water pump, radiator, all the hoses and the thermastat but it still overheats. does anyone have any ideas of what might be wrong? Also I was told that I dont need the radiator thermostat because it doesnt freeze here, is this true?
    Radiator Thermostat?
    if it has an electric cooling fan, check that out, if you have a conventional engine driven fan, check the fan clutch.

    As far as the thermostat, it serves two functions, it helps the engine reach operating temperatur sooner, and regulates coolant flow through the radiator. A normally operating thermostat will slow the flow of coolant through the radiator allowing the cooling fan or vehicle speed to provide more cooling time for the coolant in the radiator. (which, by the way, contradicts most peoples common perception of a thermostat's proper function) I also suggest drilling a 1/8 inch hole in the flat plate of the new thermostat prior to installation, this does not hurt the function, and allows air to escape from the engine block when filling your system, as opposed to trapping the air under the thermostat. A thermostat will not open in hot air, only in the presence of a hot liquid.
    Radiator Thermostat?
    If your engine cooling fan is electric, make sure it is operating properly. if not you may have issues with the head gaskets.
    As far as the overheating goes, have you noticed if you were leaking coolant anywhere? that may cause it to overheat.
    I would guess, bad cooling fan, or blocked radiator.

    You need the thermostat because it allows the engine to reach operating temperature quickly. The engine does not operate properly untill it has reached a certain temperature.
    cooling fan would be next check and to see if the radiator is just plugged up. If the fluid can't flow through the radiator it can't cool.

    (I assume you have cleaned the radiator? between the radiator and A/C condenser coil?)

    Did you install the thermostat in the correct direction??

    did you check the new one to see if it is working?

    yes.. you should have it installed
    Does it overheat while you are driving on the freeway, or only when sitting still or traveling slowly? If it is fine until you come to a stop, there is likely a problem with your cooling fan, and it is not pulling air through the radiator to cool the fluids. Check that first. simple test would be to start it in the driveway and let it heat up. if you hit 210 on the temp gauge and your fan is not on, then there is your problem. (they typically turn on around 180-190) check the relay and the fuse if it has one. other quick test is that almost all fans are tied into the A/C, so that when you turn the a/C on it automatically kicks on the cooling fan on the radiator.
    If it overheats, let it sit on the side of the road for about 20-30 minutes, open the hood to release captured engine compartment heat, then remove the radiator cap (caution). Don't do it until you are sure that the engine has cooled down, and are sure that the cap wont release the large amounts of pressure that it builds up, therefore allowing the antifreeze, and water to splash out and possibly burn you. Heed my warning, as i am not responsible for anything that happens to you are anyone around you if you do what i above described.

    Try backflushing your whole system, I also agree with checking your fan. And you do not have to have a thermostat but you will not be able to have any heat. You can always run without one for now and install it after summer if you want to. It does allow your engine to warm up faster, but if that is not a concern to you I wouldn't worry about it. I run without one in my Bronco.
    You need a thermostat to keep engine running at correct temp. If it doesn't get hot on hyway but does when you set still then cooling fan not working properly.

    How do i flush the radiator in my car?

    the anti freeze in my car is brown, i just took over the car from my grand mother and im sure the anti freeze hasnt been changed in forever. i know how to drain it, but how can i clean the inside? is there a product i can buy to pour in to clean it? or do i just use a hose?
    How do i flush the radiator in my car?
    After you have drained the coolant from your radiator go ahead and fill it up with water. You should also put in some radiator cleaning fluid you can purchase at your local parts store. Put the cap back on and run the engine until it gets up to operating Temperature. At this point it has allowed the water and cleaner to circulate through your engine block. Allow the engine to cool down and then drain the water from your radiator. You can repeat this again if you think it needs to have it due to a lot of crud in the water. Some people will tell you the system needs to be reverse flushed but I have found doing it with straight water and radiator cleaner to be very effective. The cleaner is called Nalcool, but there are others on the market and you can get them at your local Napa, O' Riellys, or Auto Zone.

    Once you have flushed the radiator out make sure you fill it up with a 50-50% mixture of water and antifreeze. This will protect your engine to the lowest Temperature possible and also keep your system maintained.

    As a good measure I always replace the radiator cap when I do a flush like this. Look at the pressure rating on your cap and get a new one when you go to the parts store to get your cleaner.

    While your under the hood you can do some minor preventive maintenance too. Check your battery and terminal clamps. If the battery has crud over the top of it then clean it off with a little baking soda mixed with water. Also check your battery terminal clamps. Make sure there isn't any corrosion. If so replace the clamps and clean the battery posts with a terminal cleaner or wire brush.

    Go ahead and do an oil change on the engine too. Replace the air and fuel filter/s. Pop the distributor cap and pull one or two of the spark plugs and take a look at them. If they look fouled you might want to go ahead and do a tune up on it at this time too.

    Good luck and I hope that helps you!
    How do i flush the radiator in my car?
    you pull the drain on the radiator and it should drain out.
    there is a product actually called radiator flush. i think it goes in after old antifreeze comes out and before you rinse with hose.
    Bottom of the radiator has a plug you turn to open up and drain the radiator.

    Have a bucket ready to catch the old. It is against the law (an environmental protection law) to let the old antifreeze leech into the ground.

    Open the top fill cap in the radiator.

    Once all has drained get a garden hose and put on full blast into the radiator fill.

    This will flush out any remaining antifreeze in the engine.

    Once the drain fluid looks clear you are done.

    Close the drain plug on the radiator and then fill with antifreeze and distilled water to the amount recommended in the owners manual.

    Put the old antifreeze into the empty antifreeze bottles and bring to a hazardous liquids disposal place.

    Usually a mechanic shop can take this or your town should have a place to dispose of it.

    If you try just to let it go into the ground or you throw away in regular garbage and a cop sees this he can fine you.

    When refilling make sure you put the correct amount of water to antifreeze.

    If you only put water in and you live in a cold climate then when it freezes outside the water would freeze and possibly crack the engine cooling system.

    This is why antifreeze is also added. it has a much lower freezing point.

    And too much antifreeze and not enough water can cause overheating of the engine block.
    There is a product called a Flush Kit from Prestone that you cut the heater hose and install the connections to attach a garden hose to and let it flush out your engine, heater core and radiator all in one complete process.

    I've used it before and it works great and you leave it on the car for the next time.
    drain the radiator,as bad as your fluid is I would remove the lower radiator hose to do this.Just opening the drain won't let any large chunks of rust and other contaminants out of the system.Refill with water and use a product called Zerex super radiator flush,napa carries it.Most flushes are 10 minutes with Zerex you ad it and drive the car for 3-6 hours pretty much cooking your cooling system clean.Now after you've run the flush(be sure too run your heat on high while running the flush this cleans the heater core behind your dash) I highly recommend replacing your thermostat.Drain the system again and remove the thermostat while it's empty.Put the thermo housing back on with out the thermostat and run clean water to rinse out the chemicals.You can also use the garden hose to fill and drain a couple times just to make sure the water runs totally clean.Replace the thermostat and the hose and refill with the proper antifreeze/water mixture.A cooling system conditioner can be a nice touch and be sure to check all your hose and replace any that need it while you're doing all this work

    Have fun
    go ahead and drain it and back flush it by taking the bottom hose off and leave the cap off, take a garden hose and flush it from the bottom to let all the dirt come out the top. but if the radiator is that dirty then the rest of the engine is too including the heater core. your better off to flush the whole cooling system.

    My car keeps over heating and building up presure in the water reservior, plus keeps steaming?

    i thought i had a simple water leak but then it went on to start building up pressure where the water hose meets the engine from the Radiator so i changed the hose and it went to do the same. it now just keeps over heating while sounding like the water reservoir is ganna explode. i open it up then the hissing dies down then were on are way 4 five mins then have to stop. please help
    My car keeps over heating and building up presure in the water reservior, plus keeps steaming?
    thermostat stuck shut and/or clogged up,or worse head gasket blown and/or leaking. check both and inspect water content for oil and check oil for water content..take to professional if doubtful.
    My car keeps over heating and building up presure in the water reservior, plus keeps steaming?
    Reverse flush the radiator,Change the thermostat.
    and take it to a mechanic
    Have a pro. look at this issue.
    I am currently having similar problems. check out my question about mine. there are alot of great answers there. mainly from user: krazybob;鈥?/a>
    I would bet you your thermostat is stuck in the closed position. Thus not letting the coolant circulate from the radiator thru the engine. Pull the old thermostat and put in a new one. Pretty easy job to do even for an amateur and they don't cost much. Better than cracking your engine block.

    You could check the thermostat after you pull it out by putting it in a cold pot of water, it should be in closed position. Put pot on stove and turn on HI to boil. After reaching a boil, use tongs to pick it up and look at it. It should now be in the open position. If not, it's broken and that should be the problem. Make sure you wash out that pot real good.
    Sounds to me like your thermostat
    had the same problem with my wifes 2000 focus.took it to ford,hudge wast of time.we found the problem. it was the water housing,the thermistat connects to it.made out of plastic!! and with more reasurch we found they only last for about 80000 miles
    If you have used radiator stop leak, you problbly have a stopped up radiator. If not it may be as simple as replacing the thermostat.
    You need to get the Cylinder head off - change head gasket.

    Hopefully it's just a failed gasket. If it fails again - it may be a cracked or warped head.

    The pressure is from the cylinder leaking into the waterway - which then pressurises the water. Symptoms are lots of foam or bubbles in the coolant tank.
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  • My 97 civic runs hot when i go over 70 mph. I have had all the hoses, pipes, radiator and thermostat changed.?

    I had all the work done less than 6 months ago. It just started yesterday. I got out to see if there was any fluid any where, there was none, or any smell or smoke. Everything looked normal no swollen pipes of any kind. The gauge doesn't go all the way to the H when it moves from the center it is about halfway to the H if that makes any sense, It drops back down to normal (in the middle) when I slow down to 65 what could be causing this?
    My 97 civic runs hot when i go over 70 mph. I have had all the hoses, pipes, radiator and thermostat changed.?
    Hi, could be the air con at the front of the radiator is partially blocking the air flow to the radiator. When the fins are bent over they don't permit air to cool the radiator.Also get the hydrostatic fans checked and ensure they are operating. Hope this helps Brett
    My 97 civic runs hot when i go over 70 mph. I have had all the hoses, pipes, radiator and thermostat changed.?
    well, first off make sure you got enough coolent and the right mixture.

    then replace your radiator cap, a bad cap can cause too little or too much pressure, once the engine is cool, open the radiator start the engine, wait a few minuts (or near operating temps) and see if the water is swirling and getting sucked down with throttle. if it doesnt its one of three things, a bad water pump, a bum thermostat or even a clogged radiator (say it sucked up some muck from the old coolent)

    also make sure the engine isnt windnig out more than usual, or it can be a slippage problem.

    good luck.
    it's working fine, but the coolant many need to be checked for air in the system and or coolant mix ratio of anitfreeze to water 50/50 for example.... most places will test it for free takes less then 30 seconds
    Have you checked the water pump? Make sure you have enough flow, because at 70 you are at a higher RPM and at lower RPM the flow may be good enough. Just a tought.
    your problem could be oil related as well ...check that lately?

    oil pans have %26quot;windage%26quot; trays that funnel the oil to the pickup increased speeds prevent adequate oil flow
    Could be a head gasket. Is there water in the oil? Is the oil a funny color or greyish?
    make sure the fan is working.
    recheck the ingnition timing and advance if it is advancing to much could be the cause

    Changing the coolant in an eclipse?

    i had to replace a hose to my radiator cap, it drained my coolant. what is the proper way to fill it back with fluid? i read my manual it didn't really help any.

    car is a 98 eclipse gs non turbo
    Changing the coolant in an eclipse?
    How old is the coolant in the car? It might be best to pull the bottom hose loose and let it all drain out. Then fill it back up with 50/50 anti-freeze and water. You can buy it premixed at any auto parts store. Some engines have to have the air bled out of the system. Where your upper hose meets the engine, if there is a bleeder screw, loosen it and fill the radiator till coolant comes out of the hole, then put the screw back in. (My wifes Galant has one) Hope this helps.
    Changing the coolant in an eclipse?
    the way i do it is i start my car, fill the radiator up, wait until the thermostat opens then fill it the rest of the way. then i fill the reservoir between the add and full marks.

    2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?

    My son's 2000 Ford Ranger, 3.0 V6 overheats. We have replaced everything (that we know of) except putting in a new engine. It started about a year ago when it overheated. Took it to our trusty mechanic shop. They replaced the radiator and thermostat. After it overheated again, my son replaced the water pump and the problem persisted. The mechanic then suggested it might have a bad head gasket. The mechanic put some Stop leak in as a temporary fix. It turned out to be drivable IF the truck was warmed up enough to open the thermostat (had to wait for the gauge to go up and then drop down and then level out in the correct spot). If you tried to drive it without a warm up, it would overheat as soon as the thermostat opened. Also, a low temp thermostat was put in. A couple of months ago it overheated after shutting off the engine (water and lots of bubbling noise came from the overflow reservoir. My son decided to change the head gaskets. The heads were resurfaced, new seals, exhaust valve seats and all looked good. The thermostat was again replaced. New coolant in place and it was ready to test drive. The truck was driven for about a half an hour from a cold start.. It didn't overheat. Thinking we've fixed it, my son takes it out, stops by a friends house about a mile away to pick something up. He leaves the truck running and when he comes back out about 5 minutes later the gauge is pegged. At that point, the following parts were changed - radiator, fan clutch, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, upper radiator hose, and sensor elbow.

    Again parts replaced and repaired since the first overheat include:

    2 radiators

    1 water pump

    1 coolant temp sensor

    1 elbow (coolant sensor attaches to it)

    1 elbow (attaches to the smaller hose of the lower radiator hose)

    6 thermostats

    2 fan clutches

    2 sets of upper and lower radiator hoses

    Head gaskets and complete seal/gasket kit

    Heads resurfaced and fixed with new exhaust valve seats

    Head bolts and header bolts

    2 Radiator caps

    We're out of ideas and need some help. Many thanks, in advance, if you've had a similar, resolved problem or think you might know what's going on.
    2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
    Ok, was the head gaskets put on the correct way, they are have the words FRONT wrote on them and easy to over look unless you know they are there, if installed backwards then you may have fixed 1 problem only to creat another. I have seen this happen before and is an easy mistake to do. 1 Gasket will have FRONT and you will see the words at the front of the motor, the other side will be turned over so the FRONT is still at the front just flipped upside down
    2000 Ford Ranger Overheating Mystery?
    Have you replaced the bottom radiator hose? A soft hose can be sucked flat by the water pump %26amp; stop water circulation. After everything cools down, the hose pops back open %26amp; looks fine. That's why some bottom hoses have like a steel coil spring inside them.
    Hate to tell you this, but it's east to check for head gasket failure/ cracked head- pull the plugs, look at the business end for rust, any time it's been overheated then sat for a few days- you can also sniff for anti-freeze

    Couldn't find a good picture, but there should be a place to %26quot;burp%26quot; excess air out of the engine- usually located right in front, either On, or right behind, the outlet/thermostat housing-looks like either a bolt with no purpose, or it might look like a brake bleeder,either way, if an air pocket stays in the top of the engine, it'll stay there, and get HUNDREDS of degrees hotter than the water !

    To burp it, run it for just a couple minutes, shut her down, wait for water to get heat from engine- maybe 5 minutes-then open the valve, close when no more air comes out-just water.

    *** you might have to do this 2 or 3 times to get all the air!
    Has an automotive technician ever verified if there are actually any exhaust gases present in the radiator/cooling system? This can be done either with a chemical method %26quot;Block Check%26quot; or with an exhaust analyzer which will measure the presence of unburned hydrocarbons in the coolant. Are you using factory replacement parts or after market parts? There are no known overheating problems with the Ranger 3.0L engine, and the radiator is a single row design with no HD version with 2 rows available.

    Do you run a 50/50 mix of the correct coolant/water? Running 100% coolant can cause the engine to overheat. What thermostat are you running, does it have an air bleed passage? we used to drill a small bleed hole to prevent trapped air behind the stat.

    How do you change the hoses one a 96 mercury Mystque?

    I need to take off the hose, that runs to my water pump, and my radiator, but im having a diffecult time because i can't get the clamps off
    How do you change the hoses one a 96 mercury Mystque?
    Which engine, the 2.0L DOHC 4-cyl. or the 2.5L V6? The one on the 4-cyl. is not easy to access where it attaches to the water pump. You need a special rad hose squeeze type clamp tool to remove the clamp, which I would replace with a conventional worm type clamp when replacing the hose. Hope this helps.
    How do you change the hoses one a 96 mercury Mystque?
    Open the clamps with big pliers and work the hose off.
    use some of the red lube that comes in the big *** tub... and put it on the end of a flat tip screwdriver, make sure you use a lot of lube. Then shove it between the hose and the connection of the radiator end of the hose and pry up.

    I have a 79 chevy custom deluxe c-10 and it keeps overheating...?

    ive flushed the radiator, replaced the thermostat, changed the radiator hoses and still over heating it could be the water pump but i was wondering if there was anything else it could be?
    I have a 79 chevy custom deluxe c-10 and it keeps overheating...?
    does the fan work? is the front of the radiator clogged? Is there any air in the system? Insteadf of water pump are u sure the belt has proper tension and isnt slipping?
    I have a 79 chevy custom deluxe c-10 and it keeps overheating...?
    could be a few things first of all did you look and see if the fins on the radiator were clean so air can flow through it? is there a fan schroud ?is there a clutch fan ? if so is it working properly ? is it only overheating on the highway or in traffic? when you start it open the radiator cap (when cool) and let it run and look inside you should see water flowing after it warms up . if not something is blocked inside or the water pump.
    Check the ignition timing. If it is too far advanced that could cause overheating.
    NEVER replace any part till you KNOW the problem. Never flush the radiator it is waste of time and money. Take your car, or if you know how, remove radiator and take it to a RADIATOR SHOP and have it cleaned. No amount of flushing will help. It must be taken apart and cleaned by the shop. Cost me $60 to get mine done.
    As Robbie suggested, timing. But usually the distributor hold down clamp has worked loose, allowing the timing to go retarded. If it was advanced, you'd have starting problems and severe detonation. Check with timing light, idling, with vacuum advance unhooked and the line plugged off. Set at 10*BTDC. If you experience detonation on hard acceleration, back it off a few degrees and retry until the ping is gone.
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  • Weird issue while changing freeze plug..?

    I changed a freeze plug a 99 mercury sable.Took it for a test spin I drove about 5 miles only hitting about 50 mph for maybe a minute or so,traffic was heavy so i parked it let it idle for about 15 min,plug was not leaking so i went back out hitting 55 mph for about 2 minutes b4 the the red lights would pop up,I took it home and And water was spittin out the side of the motor,I couldnt really tell where there was alot of steam,i wasnt gonna get to close I noticed a hose from the block heading towards the radiator,the hose was near the leak,still havent checked on it im lettin the motor cool.Do you guys think it was the hose?is this common by me fixing the freeze plug was it maybe to much pressure for the hose?and caused it to leak?The hose never appeard to be in bad shape.
    Weird issue while changing freeze plug..?
    Hose's can appear fine, but if they are old then they can go out instantly.
    Weird issue while changing freeze plug..?
    I suppose you could have hit the hose with a tool while you were doing the freeze plug.

    It's also possible you didn't purge all the air out of the coolant system after changing the freeze plug. Air inside the engine will eliminate the siphon effect, so your water pump can't pull any fluid out of the radiator. When your engine got hot, it turned some of that water to steam, which will build up pressure real fast. That pressure has to go somewhere, and better it be through your hose than through your head gasket.
    I can only guess - you'll be the final judge when you visually check to see where the leak actually is.

    Replacing the freeze plug shouldn't effect a hose unless the hose was on its last legs to begin with. Did you carefully check the rest of the freeze plugs?

    Transmission or oil leak after change of radiator ?

    So i just changed the radiator in a friends car and then i drove it around to pull coolant through the system and it worked fine....then i left it sitting for about 2 hours then was driving over to her house drove about 2-3 miles with the windows down then decided to try the AC....about 10 seconds after smoke started to come out of the hood and into the car from the i pulled over and either transmission fluid or oil was sprayed all over the underside of the hood and the engine...and there was a small tear in one of the little hoses from the radiator that this stuff was spilling out i guess i just wanna know why this happened and if its gonna be an easy fix....please help!!
    Transmission or oil leak after change of radiator ?
    It depends what color the fluid was. Transmission fluid would be red, oil would be golden or black color. Either way just from what you've stated it would be a place to start your search for the problem at the radiator. You might have stripped a fitting or nicked a hose while reinstalling the new radiator - as the radiator also houses a transmission cooler line as well as an oil cooler line in some newer model vehicles.

    The hoses are available at any automotive parts store and shouldn't be too difficult to replace the ruptured hose/hoses. When replacing the damaged hose make sure it's properly secure, not rubbing against any engine parts or kinked at a weird angle so it doesn't fail again.

    Would it be advisable to flush the radiator on my car for 5 or 10 minutes and re-fill with new Antifreeze?

    I have it in an Ideal spot to do so

    It is a 1985 Jaguar XJ6, and it has sat for about a year.. needs Oil change too

    Could the %26quot;Old Oil%26quot; possibly cause Overheating?

    And can i just take the Upper hose off, and Flush it that way, letting it run %26quot;Cold%26quot; for 10 minutes (Not Engine running, engine off.. but Water run through it while its off, flushing through Block and everything?)

    Would it be advisable to flush the radiator on my car for 5 or 10 minutes and re-fill with new Antifreeze?
    Your Answer:

    Old oil has nothing to do with overheating.

    As for the general radiator flush procedure, WITH A COOL ENGINE, you'd typically take off the lower radiator hose, or some radiators have a petcock which is like a small nut or screw that will drain the radiator.

    Once it's drained, you want to flush it - and the best idea is to use DISTILLED WATER. The reasoning here is because distilled water is free of the impurities found in normal tap water so it greatly slows the formation of rust and deposits, and will help your antifreeze stay cleaner longer.

    Basically, fill the radiator with distilled water, then start the car and turn the heater on max. This will circulate the coolant through the engine and the heater core. Let the engine run until the thermostat opens, which you should be able to determine by placing (carefully! it may be hot) your hand on the upper rad. hose and kinda squishing it until you feel coolant start to flow. Once the t-stat opens, shut the car off. (again, CAREFULLY) drain the radiator once again. Now repeat the process of flushing as many times as it takes until you have clean, clear water coming out.

    Then premix your 50% antifreeze and 50% water (or if you're using a store-bought that already comes pre-mixed 50/50) and fill it up. Top off as necessary.

    Again, that is a general, basic procedure, but hopefully that gets you in the right direction.
    Would it be advisable to flush the radiator on my car for 5 or 10 minutes and re-fill with new Antifreeze?
    no the water has to circulate and then u open the bottom hose or drain valve which is on the bottom of the radiator. let the water run thru the system thoroughly.

    replace the oil ASAP, it's the lifeblood of the engine.

    chances are the thermostat may be stuck. buy a new one or drop it in boiling water to see if it opens.
    There is no %26quot;ideal%26quot; spot to drain a radiator. It is illegal to drain antifreeze straight unto the ground because it is a poison.
    yes i would advise you to flush it but not through the top hose. take the bottom hose off and back flush it. i believe i would be changing the oil and filter too.
    You can't flush the system cold that way because the thermostat will be closed. You could remove the thermostat while flushing it.
    I like wayne's answer.

    The only change is if you've flushed with water, there is water in the system. So you shouldn't fill with 50/50. You should lookup the coolant capacity in the manual, and put in that much coolant, and the remainder with water, to achieve 50/50.

    2000 ford tarsus overheating after 30 + minutes?

    changed radiator, water pump, upper and lower hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, serpentine belt, filling reservoir, heater core. Please what else is there?
    2000 ford tarsus overheating after 30 + minutes?
    I assume you also checked the electric fan.

    Do you have driving performance problems like sluggish acceleration? If so, then a bad torque converter could be the cause.

    Another problem could be a bad head gasket.

    A plugged catalytic converter can also cause overheating, along with loss of power. But the cat will get really hot too, maybe even glow red at night.
    2000 ford tarsus overheating after 30 + minutes?
    Sounds to me like you have a blown head gasket. Have you checked the new antifreeze for oil in it? Could be your fan motor isn't working, check to see if its running when you say its boiling over. If its not running when that hot you have a bad fan motor.

    Is It OK to drive a car without the thermostat? If yes, for how Long?

    I'm assuming that my thermostat sensor or something is not functioning properly. When I drive my car, the top radiator hose is hot but the bottom isn't. My car tends to overheat about an hour of driving it. I change the thermostat but the problem still exist. What could be the problem?
    Is It OK to drive a car without the thermostat? If yes, for how Long?
    I'll just give you the simple answer good for %26quot;most%26quot; vehicles..... yes, it's ok..... but in winter it will take much longer for your heat to work, as you aren't letting the water to heat up long enough to produce heat. without the thermostat, the water/anti-freeze will free flow through your engine and radiator.
    Is It OK to drive a car without the thermostat? If yes, for how Long?
    this is a bad idea. you will definitely see some adverse effects in this situation. the coolant will take quite a while to warm up . this will cause a big change in your fuel economy. it sounds like you have a blockage in the radiator. if the upper hose gets hot (like it should) but the lower end stats cool you either have a blockage or a failed pump. on some of the newer cars you can find an electric water pump this could present a problem in your situation if nothing else is obvious, like stiff steering or a charge lamp that stays on. this would all signify a thrown belt.
    Are the radiator fans coming on? If so, you could measure the temp of the upper rad hose with a laser thermometer and see what the actual temp is. maybe your gauge is not reading right.
    Could be a huge airlock or blocked rad core.
    Again, I wish you'd have included the year make and model of your car. If it has electric fans are they switching on? If so do you have the original radiator? How old is the car? Do you have a silicone filled thermostatic mechanically driven fan hub? Do the blades speed up as the temperature rises? Have you ever used any products along with the antifreeze such as Barr's Leak or ant brand of stop leak? Do you still have plenty of heat coming from the heater?

    As a general rule of thumb drain the radiator and flush the system with a Prestone flushing T in the return hose from the heater core. Flush till the water is clear. Drain the radiator of the clear water. Dump two 33.5 oz. plastic bottles of **Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner in the radiator. If it will not all fit. Pull off your coolant recovery tank and clean it out with Wisk and a round bristle brush. Dump the remainder of the cleaner inside the coolant recovery tank. Auto Zone and Advance Auto has this product. Do not substitute with anything else!

    This cleaner is unlike the other Prestone product: Prestone Radiator Flush. The instructions say to actually drive a minimum of 200 miles with the cleaner inside the cooling system. At the end of the bare minimum 200 miles flush and drain again till the water is clear.

    At this time install a new Stant or AC-Delco thermostat (correct heat range) and a new closed system radiator pressure cap -minimum 13 lb. If this car were mine I'd drive it a week with nothing but pure water and a bottle of NAPA'S cooling system anti-rust so as not to waste expensive antifreeze if the radiator, radiator hoses are collapsed in the center or radiator core is seriously plugged with corrocion, rust or stop leak. If the motor runs within its normal heat zone for a week or two, drain and flush and do your antifreeze thing.

    Please be sure you're using the proper type of antifreeze. Buy a couple gallons of 100% antifreeze. When ever you re-fill any cooling system look in your handbook in the specifications page and find the cooling systems capacity. Pour exactly half the capacity first with 100% antifreeze. Make sure the coolant recovery bottle is clean. fill the coolant recovery bottle with any antifreeze you were unable to fill in the radiator. For the first week or two keep the coolant recovery bottle nearly full with water only after half the capacity of the cooling system has been met with 100% antifreeze. The coolant will drop noticeably during the first week or two of driving keep it a minimum of 3/4 filled at all times. The heat cycling of the coolant purges air from the cooling system causing the water leval to drop. This will stop at the end of 100 -200 miles of on and off driving.
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  • My 93 accord only runs for ten to twenty minutes before stalling. Why?

    I have changed the main relay, ignition coil, coolant temperature sensor, and the thermostat. I recently noticed that my bottom radiator hose isnt getting as much pressure as the top hose or nearly as hot.
    My 93 accord only runs for ten to twenty minutes before stalling. Why?
    there are two possibilities given what you've already done by way of parts replacement.

    the first and most likely suspect is the ignition module. the ignition module switches the primary circuit of the ignition coil. It is a transistor and when they fail they usualy fail because of heat that causes the transistor to go open circuited.

    the first thing you need to do is to find out if you're losing spark or fuel when the car stalls. How long does it take to restart the car when it stalls? if the engine has to cool down, chances are its the ignition module. If you can test for spark when it stalls and you don't have any then it is most likely the ignition module.

    if you have spark then its fuel. there is the possibility that your fuel cap is clogged and not venting so you're pulling a vacuum in the tank as it drains and this can cause a fuel starvation problem. the easy test for this is to run the car with the fuel cap loose and if it still stalls its not the cap or the tank venting.

    the fuel filter on that car is the size of a soda can and it takes a lot to clog it. it is a possibility albeit a slight one.

    my guess is you're losing spark and the igntiion module is the cause

    hope that helps
    My 93 accord only runs for ten to twenty minutes before stalling. Why?
    the car will shut it self off if the temp gets too high

    it protects the motor

    befre you throw any more money into it thorw a tester on it you can rent them at most autoparts stores

    this probally(it may but i doubt it in this year)wont tell you if you have a bad water pump

    you did the easy check with squeezing the hoses

    another easy check is to drain the fliud a little bit and (WITH THE CAR COOL)remove the radiatior cap turn the car on and see if you have fluid flowing through the rad if it is standing still you probally have a bad water pump

    Could be a clogged fuel filter.

    Is there a %26quot;rotten egg%26quot; smell? You might have a plugged catalytic converter?

    Is the %26quot;Check Engine%26quot; light on ( or a little yellow engine symbol) lit up on your dashboard? It could be something in the engine computer or the emissions system.

    Have a 1996 chevy Beretta 3.1lt engine keeps over heating and boiling over all the water comes out the radiato

    Replaced Water pump twice with new ones and put new radiator new thermostat new sensor new hoses still ran very hot so I ran water from one end of the motor and it came out the other end did that to all the hoses and pipes and all came out the other side dose not seem to, be clogged fan is working fine even wired it direct and still does the same thing even ran without the thermostat and still dose the same can some body please tell me what is wrong with this car .Thank you for any help. Also have changed radiator cap twice with new ones and still it is the same can someone please help
    Have a 1996 chevy Beretta 3.1lt engine keeps over heating and boiling over all the water comes out the radiato
    If it's constant..then it's compression leaking to yer cooling system %26amp; you've a bad head gasket or head. =^ (
    Have a 1996 chevy Beretta 3.1lt engine keeps over heating and boiling over all the water comes out the radiato
    IF YOU START IT COLD AND IT DEVELOPS heat to blow water within a mile or less you might have exhaust blowing into your water jacket via bad head gasket,cracked head etc...

    open the recovery bottle and smell inside.dont attempt it when it is will hurt. allot. if it has a foul or foreign aroma it probably smelling a known good car. also if you have the radiator cap off full of water ,start and look for steady bubbles coming up to surface of warter.this will be the compression pushing into the water jacket.

    if confirmed it is a major repair and often; especially if negligent and running the motor hot ,total destruction of the engine is accomplished. takes the temper out of the rings.i've even seen blueing of the cylinder walls.only total stupidity will cause destruction like that.

    when engine temp is over 265 at most,just turn it off.running it will destroy it. if you must you can let it cool for an hour, start and run untill it gets 220 give or take a little. stop another hour.repeat as necessary.its the only way to movea hot runner without destroying your wallet..good luck.
    You have a bad head gasket, possibly a cracked head. Remove both heads and have them inspected at a competent machine shop, use a high quality head gasket like Fel-Pro when you re-install the heads. If the car has high mileage and the cylinders look scuffed , not nice and shiney you might want to look for a replacement engine from a Junkyard or a wrecked car, there are tons of 3.1's all over, a good used engine will run $300 - 550.
    Very common on that vehicle is that your intake manifold gasket is leaking.Normally shops are going to charge 8-900 dollars to repair . Chances are you are leaking coolant form your intake and which is burning off of your engine.Which means your car is over heating due to lack of coolant.
    From your question the only thing I wonder is are you adding coolant/antifreeze to the water? Sometimes this will help your motor to run cooler. If you are there may be a blockage in the oil pumping system not allowing it to cool either. I know these are way out there but it seems like you have done pretty much everything else. I hope this helps.

    Papa Gene
    Check the lubricating systems for flow and pressure ...
    cracked or warped heads, blown head gasket? do you have any oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil. Check for that and get back to us. (milkshake colored oil / droplets in the radiator)
    Sounds like a blown head gasket. Cylinder pressure from the engine might be leaking into the cooling jacket of the engine pressurizing the radiator and hoses etc. You need to have the engine tested with a cylinder leak down tester to check for bad gaskets. If you are describing water coming out of the engine it could be the gasket from the intake manifold to the heads. Another might be a core/freeze plug is rusted out. When the engine is hot does the water run down the ends of the engine? Water may enter the oil if this continues.

    Whats inside the capillary tube on a thermo fan switch?

    i had one break off in the top radiator hose .

    i got it all out but should i change the coolant because of fluid the come out of the switch.

    if its just alcohol it won't mater.
    Whats inside the capillary tube on a thermo fan switch?
    Alcohol and it's a very small amount too, so it won't hurt.
    Whats inside the capillary tube on a thermo fan switch?
    you mean viscous/clutch fan? where is the switch is located and its tubes May be you are talking about radiator or thermostat please clarify

    Could my thermostat have failed and caused oil to leak into the radiator,but not ruined the head gasket?

    I brought my 1989 honda wagon into the shop to get a tune up and oil change,it was past due and the car was running rough. They talked me into getting a radiator flush,new top radiator hose,fuel injection service,etc. A total bill of 400!

    When leaving the shop the owner said %26quot;you car not start%26quot; I said huh? %26quot;you car die%26quot; (he didnt speak much English) %26quot;you car die tomorrow it not my fault%26quot;-WHAT

    I asked him to explain and he said my car was old and could die anytime, I was suspicious and hounded him for a reason it would die he clammed up.

    Fast forward a week my car overheats and spews water and a little oil.

    I have checked for all the signs of a cracked head gasket but all the pieces do not fit.

    There is oil in the reserve tank of the radiator, drops on the rad cap.

    There is NO water in the oil.

    There is NO white smoke.

    There are NO bubbles in the coolant when running the car .

    The fan is not kicking in.

    The car Is overheating.

    The engine is running well .

    Any ideas?
    Could my thermostat have failed and caused oil to leak into the radiator,but not ruined the head gasket?
    First thing is the fan not running. This however could be caused by a bad thermostat. If the sensor that tells the fan to run is not receiving hot water the fan won't turn on. This happens if the sensor is on the radiator or on the output side of the system. It can also happen if the sensor is in a pocket, without water flow the pocket may remain full of air.

    I would say the thermostat may be bad. If you aren't getting white smoke and don't find any oil in the water or vice-versa my first guess is the head gasket is fine. Now, overheats can cause the head gasket to fail so don't let this go on and don't let it get too hot.

    Apparently the car starts and runs didn't say how that happened.

    Take the radiator cap off, run the engine, when it gets hot the thermostat should be open and you should be able to see flow through the radiator.

    Take the thermostat out, see if the car overheats. Or, test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water. It had better open by the time the water reaches boiling temp.

    If you have flow, and thermostat works, look at the fan. It's probably a sensor, relay, or fuse.

    Why does my 1995 honda accord keep over heating while its idle or when the ac is on?

    i have changed the thermostat, radiator, the hoses.. and much more please a little help its going to be a hot summer..
    Why does my 1995 honda accord keep over heating while its idle or when the ac is on?
    change your timing belt and water pump, problem solved!

    make sure that when your A/C is on that BOTH FANS are on, my 90 Accord F22A4 had both fans working when I used A/C so I assume that's the way it goes, my JDM H22A uses only one fan, and I think that it is supposed to use two. If so, I myself have a problem. IAC valve is NOT the problem! This tells computer how much air is needed when car is idle.
    Why does my 1995 honda accord keep over heating while its idle or when the ac is on?
    I have this exact same problem with my 95 accord. Did changing just the water pump fix this problem? I have a limited budget and I know changing the timing belt is rather pricy. Did you change both? Did it work?

    Report Abuse


    NEVER NEVER NEVER change just one! When you change your timing belt, ALWAYS ALWAYS change your timing belt and WP TOGETHER!

    You can get it done under 400. I did, and got a 1 year guarantee on it too!

    Report Abuse

    It sounds like the radiator FAN, fans relay, fan fuse or something related to the fan.

    It is suppose to keep the car cooled during idling.

    Good Luck...
    try the idle control valve or even the the coolant tank. See if there is a blockage within the tank.
    Usually the car can dissipate more heat when it's moving, since air will rush through the radiator. However, at increased speeds, you have increased RPM, which means more heat, so it's a trade-off... Your car might not overheat while you drive it because the air rushing through the front end of the car is dissipating more heat than the engine is making.

    But at stand-still the radiator fan should kick on to help dissipate heat. I'd first check that 1) your radiator fan is running when the car is not moving. There are two fans that I speak of, one is behind the radiator, mounted to the engine. The engine itself turns this one. The other is in front of the radiator, and is usually electric. If it isn't running, then there is reduced air moving through the radiator grille to get rid of the heat. If it isn't running, it could be a blown fuse, or it could be the fan has died.

    2) While the car is off, and cold, open the radiator, and make sure that you have fluid in there, set to the correct level. You should have a mix of 50% water and 50% anti freeze. Antifreeze breaks down over time, so you should do a coolant flush every 2 years.

    3) It could be a stuck thermostat. If the thermostat is old, or original to the car, you might think about replacing it. It basically closes at low temperatures to help uniformly heat the engine block, but at higher temperatures should open to dissipate the heat in the coolant fluid to the radiator. If you get a replacement thermostat, make sure you get one set for the correct temperature, as they can vary with aftermarket parts.

    4) Also, you might have air in your coolant lines. If you have recently done a coolant flush, it's important to massage the rubber hoses to get any air out of the system. This allows the water pump to effectively move the coolant through the system. If you have a lot of air bubbles, then coolant wont flow very well.

    5) As for the A/C - that removes heat from the cabin, but transfers the heat to the engine bay, since it's one more motor that has to run. Turning it on will put more strain on your engine, reduce fuel efficiency, and increase temperature in the engine bay slightly.
    is your coolant level full? if so then do all your fans work? i would bet that the condensor fan is out or possibly both fans not working if it only overheats when idling. start there.
    sounds like the fans are not working. do you hear them kick on at all?
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  • My radiator is leaking?

    well i recently fixed my radiator cause it couldnt keep any coolant down, so i changed it. and now its leaking this brownish clear type of liquid, i have a 96 honda accord with a automatic transmission, and a v-tec engine, i was wondering it that was normal, and the leak is on one of the medal pipes that stick out of the radiator, i thought it was hose, but it wasnt leaking from there, just the metal area and thats it.what could be wrong with it. and i changed the radiator it also through some of that brown clear type of liquid out, and it was a lot, now its just leaking dripping it. i was wondering if anybody can tell me if its normal, or what it might be.
    My radiator is leaking?
    It shouldn't be leaking at all. The metal lines coming out of the rad should have a fitting that screws them into the main radiator core... It sounds like you just need to tighten one of them a smidge. If a shop did the radiator replacement for you, take it back, show them, and they'll use the proper wrench to tighten it up (free of charge). If you did the rad fix at home, you can fix it with a regular wrench but a line fitting wrench is the safest best.

    They look like this... note it wraps around a bit at the tips for a perfect tight fit. You can get them at any hardware store.鈥?/a>
    My radiator is leaking?
    well if its brown liquid its not antifreeze, it's power steering fluid the if its red its transmission fluid check it. make sure that those likes that go to the radiator are tight if they are and they keep leaking then you can buy teflon tape and put some on. try to use a wrench that are for those lines so you wont damage them because they are fragile.
    Does the radiator have transmission fluid capability? Exactly which metal pipe are you talking about that %26quot;sticks out of%26quot; the radiator? Is this a pipe you had to detach and attach to the radiator? If so, it may be a transmission fluid line.

    If you changed this out on your own but don't even know how to identify the connections, you may want to do one of two things:

    Buy a Haynes manual for your make and model of vehicle at Autozone and check out the section on your cooling system, or ...

    Take your vehicle to a radiator shop and let them have a look at it.

    Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?

    My car temp. keeps rising and i have changed every hose and anti-freeze...did a radiator flush but temp. still rises....someone told me to change the intake gasket and thermostat...another friend told me leave the thermostat off and run it like dat? this safe?
    Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
    It won't kill you ,so it's safe. But it will make the motor run rich longer because of the longer time it will take to come up to operating temperature. This will carbon up the cylinders and probably throw codes. It may load up the cat converter and cause it to fail. Not the best idea.

    You should get a master mechanic to diagnose the problem. It could be the electric radiator fan is not functioning as it should, or that the water pump is not working. It may be that you have a bad head gasket and that an air pocket keeps forming in the cooling system.

    Changing the thermostat is the first thing I would have done.

    Something is causing the problem and you had better get it fixed before you do major motor damage.
    Is it safe to leave off a thermostat on a car?
    it is safe.
    yes, you can run without a thermostat, but your heater will never get hot...

    I'd suggest a new thermostat rather than %26quot;no%26quot; thermostat, since they are rather inexpensive...

    you may also want to check your fans, and make sure they are working properly...

    finally you may need a new water pump...

    as long as you don't have any big bubbles in your coolant system, and your head gaskets arent blown... you should be right as rain
    Safe, yes.


    Your engine running hot could be a bad sensor, a plugged fuel filter, a vacuum leak, poor timing and several other things.

    In short, you just need to get some things taken care of, not putting a thermostat in it may cure the symptoms but not the real problem (which can lead to an early death for the engine and car).
    Since temps keep rising, suspect a blown head gasket. Is the vehicle expelling coolant when it gets hot? If so, almost certain head gasket is blown.

    Running without a t-stat will not allow the engine to get up to normal operating temps and keep the engine running rich, which will reduce fuel economy.
    It is not good. The piston can get hot and expand while the block stays cool and compact. That combo spells disaster.
    your car will not heat just change the thermostat
    It is safe, in that it isn't going to blow up or anything. However, Your defrosters and heater will not get hot, so clearing the windshield may be a problem, which is not safe.

    Also the engine running hot may be the result of something else being wrong with the engine. Your engine may also run rich if you pull the thermostat, the computer will think that the engine is still cold and will throw more fuel into the cylinders which isn't good for the engine.

    The best thing to do, is to have the problem corrected and to replace the thermostat with a new one. The car will perform better and you'll save gas too.

    Good luck with it.
    Put a new thermostat in correctly (i have seen them in up-side down)

    Make sure the cooling fan works. If the car has air conditioning, it may have a fan clutch that is freewheeling. Get it replaced.

    If no fan clutch make sure the cooling fans work, bad relay, bad senser will allow overheating.

    Best I can do with no details to work with.
    You can run it if you want to but your vehicles computer (ECM) will make the car run worse since it is removed, just replace it with the correct one in degrees and not higher or lower.
    if your temp keeps rising you probably have a head gasket not run without thermostat because you will not know if you are overheating,you could do major damage with out knowing.
    If the temp rises only when the vehicle is stopped, such as at stoplights or when idling parked, and if the temp goes back down after you get the car moving, then your thermosensor (sticking out near the bottom of the radiator in my Honda) has probably gone bad and is no longer telling the fan to come on when you don't have wind coming through the radiator (because you are stopped). It is a very cheap fix.

    Also, a stuck thermostat will cause your problem. Also a very cheap fix.

    At many auto parts stores you can buy a Haynes do-it-yourself manual for your model car, with step-by-step instructions, and basic explanations at the beginning of each chapter. If it is not in stock, you can order it online by searching on %26quot;auto repair manuals%26quot; on Yahoo search. In the front is a section on %26quot;Troubleshooting%26quot; that guides you step-by-step to find causes of most engine malfunctions based on the car's symptoms. Whether you do the work yourself or not, it helps you make informed decisions, to understand your mechanic and not be taken advantage of, and to not feel so %26quot;in the dark.%26quot;

    db667089 says: you can check For about the same price as a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual, you can have online access (for a whole year) to model specific info for your particular vehicle. This is the same info that repair shops use. They have great wiring schematics/diagrams.

    Also, for about $15 for a one-month subscription, you can get the factory manual, downloadable (careful! Mine was about 500 pages!) or viewable, at
    no, put a new thermostat in it and have the waterpump checked and make sure the fan is working properly.

    My honda accord keeps overheating...whats wrong?

    I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX. I changed the thermostat on it on a Saturday, and it did fine the day after we changed it, then my husband took the car and drove it to work that following Monday. It started heating up again that we parked it, until I could get my brother to come help change the radiator hoses. We did that this past Sunday. My husband drove the car on Monday and it did fine. Then I drove it yesterday and today, and it did fine up until today! I was on my way to take a cat to the vet and it started heating up, quickly. I drove it back home and it started heating up not long before I got home. It started smoking and %26quot;boiling%26quot; when I parked it and shut it off. It was smoking from just under the long radiator hose.

    What else could it be? Help!?!
    My honda accord keeps overheating...whats wrong?
    its a good possibility your electric radiator fan isn't working. if you have air conditioning then turn it on and see if the temperature drops--the air conditioning will turn on the condensor fan and that will act as a radiator fan to pull air over the radiator. chances are you had the air conditioning or defroster on when the car wasn't overheating

    the radiator fan is on the back of the radiator; you should hear it run when the car is shut off if it was overheating.

    if the fan isn't working it could be the fan relay or thermo switch for the fan but the chances are that the motor itself is seized.

    try running the car with teh Air Conditioning on and see if it overheats. if it doesn't then the radiator fan isn't working. if it does overheat, then look at the fans when the engine is hot and see if they are working; there is a chance both fan motors arent' working. if the fans aren't working then they will probably need to be replaced

    hope that helps
    My honda accord keeps overheating...whats wrong?
    You could have replaced it with a bad thermostat. Take it out and test it by placing it in boiling water and see if it opens up. They are common to be bad even when new.
    Go to a RADIATOR SHOP and get a check up. They usually do a check for free.
    It could be a number of things. You could have a bad thermostat again, If it has electric fans the motor could be fried, if you have a fan clutch then the clutch good be %26quot;dragging%26quot; causing it to not work properly. Or your radiator could be plugged up and not flowing properly. Also check your water pump
    when your overheating try turning the heater on it will decrease the overheating time to pull over..

    or what you can do when you see your temp neddle goes pass the middle go out and check if the fun turns on if not then your fan is broken..

    because when cars pass certain temp fan turns on..

    also you might have a faulty radiator cap..if its not keeping pressure its going to can go to radiator shop and theyll check your cap..

    also radiator can be the source

    low coolant

    now if it over heats when your idling or sitting on a stop light then its your water pump.. hehee

    I have a water leak on the back side of the engine, can you show me schematic of the 1995 mazda heater hose co

    the engine runs out of water and gets hot while the radiator water is cold to the touch. I have changed the thermostat and have checked the water pump, its good. i believe the heater hose in or out of the engine is leaking. i need to see schematics of this area

    to determine if this may be the problem area.
    I have a water leak on the back side of the engine, can you show me schematic of the 1995 mazda heater hose co
    I just yesterday replaced the heater control valve on a 91 Caprice, I found the leak by letting the car get to operating temp, and the turning on the AC/heater, try that, and look for leaks while it is running, if it is the heater hose, it will be pretty obvious.

    Good luck!
    I have a water leak on the back side of the engine, can you show me schematic of the 1995 mazda heater hose co
    wellfirst of all no one will be able to show you the schematics without knowing what year and model mazda you have.....engine size wouldn't hurt either........I do gotta tell you that my gut feeling from what you are describing says blown head gasket.....I hope it i just the heater hose for your sake though.......If I were you I would purchase a repair manual for the schematics.......most parts stores carry either %26quot;haynes%26quot; or %26quot;chiltons%26quot;....and they usually cost around $20!!!......good luck!!!!

    I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a problem. I just had the water pump changed, but the radiator is empty?

    I'm afraid the battery will overheat, and I don't see any water on the garage floor. We've checked the hoses, and I am contemplating adding %26quot;stop leak%26quot; to the radiator. Would that help, or cause bigger problems?
    I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a problem. I just had the water pump changed, but the radiator is empty?
    You might have had a air bubble, fill it again and run it 15 min and let it cool and then ckeck it. try this several times, if you are still loosing water and no external leaks then you might have a bad head gasket and could try water glass (sodium silicate) or block sealer. it can plug up the heater core, be sure to run it 20 min
    I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a problem. I just had the water pump changed, but the radiator is empty?
    i own a repair shop,,and i wouldn't add any stop leak to it,,id see if i could find the leak,,it may be in the radiator,,but if you add stop leak in it ,,it will stop up the heater core on it,and cause other problems to it,,id add water and check it,,it will show where it s leaking from,once you add some water in it,,and it may just be leaking while its running,,but id check it real good,,also see if you have a wet floor board,,,other wise just take your time and you will find it,,good luck i hope this help,s.
    Get a new car. The one you have is almost 30 years old, and they don't last forever.
    No water in the radiator will have absolutely zero effect on the battery. Batteries only overheat when they are overstressed or overcharged. Your problems are much bigger if you drive your vehicle with a dry radiator. A dry rad means no water flowing through your engine block. This will result in almost immediate overheating leading to very quickly to expensive things breaking internally in your engine. The first thing you should do is fill your rad with water and then run the engine to see where the leak is coming from. Since you just had the water pump replaced, I can't help but wonder if the installation wasn't done properly and that is the source of your problem. When you add the water (or anti-freeze) to the rad, start the car, but leave the radiator cap off (for older cars, without an overflow tank) or just fill up the overflow tank. As the car runs, the engine should draw water out of the rad (or o/f tank). Keep it topped up as the level changes until you are certain that the cooling system is full. You should be able to detect the leak by now. If you cannot, it is quite likely that the mechanic that replaced the water pump didn't go through this procedure and left your engine without enough coolant to properly take care of itself. Keep an eye on it for a few days to make sure everything is OK.
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  • Why is my car overheating? I changed the water pump, hose, thermostat and the fan turns on.?

    the radiator has no leak but i did find a leak in the freeze plug. Is this all it would need?
    Why is my car overheating? I changed the water pump, hose, thermostat and the fan turns on.?
    what car? possible head gasket fault
    Why is my car overheating? I changed the water pump, hose, thermostat and the fan turns on.?
    Thats very possible
    Your radiator core is plugged - take it to a radiator shop
    You may find once in a while, and not eventually be overly stupefied about it by a leak

    How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?

    I am unable to remove the air cleaner housing in order to reach the 13mm and 10mm nuts or bolts holding the battery secure. It also appears that when the battery is freed it will be extremely difficult to remove it from under the left front quarter panel which curves over the front left corner of the battery. On the right side of the battery the radiator hose is in close proximity and I am not sure that the battery will clear it. What do I do?
    How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?
    although it appears that there is not much room , there is actually plenty. All you have to do it undo the 2 clips in the front of the air cleaner. then use a flathead screwdriver and undo the clamp on the end of the throttle body. This will give you access to the battery. When you have it unbolted just pull straight up and it will come out.
    How to change the battery on a 2004 pt cruiser?鈥?/a> about 3/4 down the page.

    I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?

    Can anyone verify if I must take off the hose at the bottom

    for sure? It seems that with no peacock valve, the hose may

    leak or deteoriate if i take off the hose. It would seem better

    for mitsubitshi to have a drain plug for my annual change

    of antifreeze and clean out the gunk. Because, one must

    first take out the antifireeze existing, then run it with water for

    15 minutes, then dain it again, after having first hooked it up

    with a radiator flush, then again for water and a third time for

    the new antifreeze, its a lot of times one must unscrew the hose. it seems there should be a radiator drain plug as the

    constant unscrewing of the hose and putting it back on would

    cause leaks in the radiator hose. Can anyone verify if the

    2000 mitsubishi has no radiator drain(peacock) valve to

    drain the radiator?
    I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
    check for a peacock on your mitsubitho van again( and as far as i know you will never find a peacock valve because there is no such thing and a mistubitho i haven't ever heard of either) did you build this mistubitho van yourself and made up name as you went along
    I cannot find a radiator drain plug on my Mitsubitho 2000 van.?
    That's right ... no drainplug ..... but you don't need to screw the hoseclamp back on each time ... just push the hose back on the fitting and run it with the cap off for a few minutes ... and you only need to run it till it warms up and the thermostat opens making sure all the old coolant is flushed through ... when the system is clean retighten the hoseclamp.

    You're better off taking the hose off anyway because you get a proper surge emptying any settled residue that might be in the bottom of your radiator ... the drain tap just trickles and clogs if you have any sediment

    1997 Jetta Overheating, Car overheats right away when driving.?

    I noticed that the top of the engine gets hot and the top radiator hose gets hot but about 3 inches from the radiator the hose is COLD, the radiator is COLD and all of the lower hoses to the water pump. Wanted to change the thermostat but found out it isn't so easy in this Jetta, it is buried under the Alternator and Power steering. Does anyone know does this sound like a Waterpump that has gone out. I don't see any coolant leaking and the belt is tight not squeeking. Do hear a rattle somewhere upfront. THe car starts up fine and runs good. I haven't tried to drive it though because it overheats right away. The car original overheated added water to get home. Drove it the next day about 15 miles started to overheat again. Had the radiator flushed at an oil and lube place. After the flush car overheated as soon as I pulled out of the oil change place.
    1997 Jetta Overheating, Car overheats right away when driving.?
    The T-Stat is not opening to let the coolant pass through to the entire engine. Thats why your getting hot and cold hoses.

    replace the t-stat

    good luck
    1997 Jetta Overheating, Car overheats right away when driving.?
    Thermostat, most likely. if your hose is hot except at the radiator then that would be the place to start. the cooling systems are pretty simple on most cars. I change my fluid and thermostat once a year. If you have a good mechanic do your work they should replace the thermostat when they flush the coolant. most quick lube places do not. if the thermostat is not opening the water will not be able to get cool.
    Bad thermostat
    It really sounds like you've got a thermastat stuck in the closed postion. Do you know if when the lube guys changed the fluid in your radiator, if there was any oil in there? And is there any water deposits in your oil? If so, you've blown a head gasket. At any case, I'd take it to an auto repair shop to at least have it checked out. Normally it really doesn't cost to much for them to diagnos the problem. And if you let them work on that's usally free.
    does the heater work??? if no could be air lock in system when bleeding heater valves must be up to hot position so all system can be air free, is the water level staying same or going down??? is the oil white??? could be head.

    when engine gets warm thermostat should open then water should flow through to header tank?????
    I suspect an air lock in your top hose. Try squeezing it with the engine running and see whether you get air released into the the header tank. the header tank level will drop as you expell the air.
    Thermostat !!

    How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?

    how do I change the thermostate on a pontiac montana 2003? can't find the housing not on either side radiator hose on right or left. is it buried somewhere?
    How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
    It is actually buried under the air cleaner. It isn't as easy as changing a thermostat sounds.
    How do I change the thermostat on Pontiac montana 2003?
    The top radiator hose usually leads to the top of the engine and the thermostat bell shaped housing. Buy an repair manual for your car from a local auto parts store or go to your local library to view their Chilton's or Motor's repair manuals.鈥?/a>
    It is located below the throttle body follow the upper rad. hose on the left side of engine, behind the exhaust crossover pipe. There are two bolts holding it to the lower intake. The bolts are in a very tough spot to get at. Could be easier to take it to a good shop and let the pos do it. Good luck
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  • Radiator Help?

    My radiator hose popped on my 95 accord while sitting at a stop light. I was going to change it awhile ago because the tube was bloated, but it eventually just popped on me. So my question... I put a new tube on and filled up the radiator with 50 coolant/ and 50 water... how come ever since I did this the radiator smokes??? Obviously I will take it into a mechanic but I was just what could be the problem.
    Radiator Help?
    I think you have residue from the coolant that covered it when it burst.
    Radiator Help?
    Thermastat is stuck.
    It could possibly be many things maybe the pit cock you use to drain the radiator is leaking a little maybe one of your heater hoses is leaking a little or maybe a cooler line for your tranny is leaking a little. If any of these things are leaking on to your radiator it would cause it to smoke. Someone cold tel you more if they looked at it.
    You could still have coolant all over the radiator. Depends how long it has been smoking. Take a hose and spray your radiator off really good. If it has been awhile, you could have a small leak from the new hose, possibly needs to be tightened more.
    Most likely there is some old anitfreeze/coolant hiding in the radiator %26quot;fins%26quot;. Best thing to do is take it to the do-it-yourself carwash and rinse the radiator down really good with just plain rinse water. Any coolant that got on the motor can be rinsed off while you're doing the radiator.

    After you drive it around for a day then you should not see any %26quot;steam%26quot; coming from the radiator. If it continues to %26quot;steam%26quot; then you may have a small leak in the radiator or your new hose isn't clamped tight enough.

    Good Luck!
    The main problem you could have from this disadventure would be the system requires bleeding from air bubbles.

    If the temperature guage is normal then you are ok, otherwise it's a screw somewhere in a high place, open it till water comes out then tighten it.

    Apart from that I wouldn't worry about the smoke, but you can rinse it, be careful not to point any water jet at the rad as the fins are real delicate.

    Good points been made above, remember that when temperature rises then pressure goes up and if there's a leak or the hose isn't tight then you'll lose water. Best have a look while it's doing it.
    how long does it smoke for?and how bad ?there might be a leak in your radiator.If i were you i would take a water hose and spray the radiator on both sides ,rinse it all over then allow it to dry off for about a half hour or so ,then start the car and let the engine get up to temp.if there is a leak it will begin smoking again.How hot did you get the engine when the hose broke?those engines have aluminum heads and easily warp