I know this may be a dumb question but what are those black plastic like hoses under hood called? They have little ridges going the entire length and some of them have clamps on them. not the radiator hose or anything like that. I'm asking because one of mine has a long split down the middle of it. I noticed it while I was changing my air filter. Is that a problem? I need to know the name of it. Thanks.
Black plastic hoses?
It's actuallly a wire wrap. that's how they are made, it keeps several wires together and it also keeps them free of dirt and out of the way of moving parts
Black plastic hoses?
I don't know, but is it just one of the hoses that is holding wires together? I know those have long splits down them sometimes. Otherwise I am just not sure what plastic like hose it could be.
lol, that's what I was talking about Duce, I just didn't know what it was actually called. Glad someone else thinks that too, my answer wasn't way off then.
There two types of hose that look like that. One is what Duce described, and is called convolute. It protects wiring from abrasion mainly. It has a split in the middle so that the wiring can be inserted, or removed for that matter. The other type that looks similar is the tubing used for evaporative emissions. Instead of short squared off ridges like convolute, this type tubing has rounded ridges, and has nothing inside it. A simple inspection and a squeeze will tell what type hose it is. If it's convolute, it's supposed to be split. If it's not, your check engine light will be on soon!
Thursday, October 6, 2011
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
I had a little leak that was causing me to put antifreeze in about every 2 weeks. I was told of bar leak to block leaks.That was then put into the hose of the radiator since it doesn't have the kind of radiator you can just pour it into. Now the car is fine when I drive but if I sit in park the needle goes to half and when I turn it off antifreeze boils over through the overflow hose and I can hear the bubbling . The reservoir then is empty in the morning when I check the car. Changed water pump and thermostat. I was told to maybe try to have the radiator flushed. The thing is this didn't start happening until the bar leak was placed in the radiator. Anyone has any ideas? The needle never gets to the half mark until I sit in park then this all happens. HELP!! Should I try to have radiator flushed?
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
ever who told you to add bars leak to it didn't like you very much because adding that to it is real bad idea,it will clog things up like the heater core along with the radiator and cause more problems than you originally had with it,what you need to do is flush the whole system out including the radiator and the engine and hope that you can get all this out of it,if you don't it will cause more problems than you have now,that stuff was only meant to be used in severe cases where you couldn't get to a repair shop other wise never use it,good luck on it,
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
thanks man,i hope that didn't clog the system up to bad,i haven't ever used it and hope to never have to but have had vehicles in the shop that had it in them and it was a mess to get cleaned out,good luck with it.
Odd. Can you locate a pinhole leak in the upper or lower radiator hoses?
Also, check the overflow container -- does it have any cracks?
Somewhere there is obviously a leak, which prevents pressure from building, which allows overflow.
It's probably in the radiator or upper/lower hoses, because that's the pressurized system.
If this is a 2.7 engine, you might have a leaking bleeder housing. It's a black box that sits on the block. You should see a sensor and a bleeder screw on top and three hoses that connect to it. I sell 1 of those every two weeks. They develop a small crack and let coolant leak out.
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
ever who told you to add bars leak to it didn't like you very much because adding that to it is real bad idea,it will clog things up like the heater core along with the radiator and cause more problems than you originally had with it,what you need to do is flush the whole system out including the radiator and the engine and hope that you can get all this out of it,if you don't it will cause more problems than you have now,that stuff was only meant to be used in severe cases where you couldn't get to a repair shop other wise never use it,good luck on it,
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
thanks man,i hope that didn't clog the system up to bad,i haven't ever used it and hope to never have to but have had vehicles in the shop that had it in them and it was a mess to get cleaned out,good luck with it.
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Odd. Can you locate a pinhole leak in the upper or lower radiator hoses?
Also, check the overflow container -- does it have any cracks?
Somewhere there is obviously a leak, which prevents pressure from building, which allows overflow.
It's probably in the radiator or upper/lower hoses, because that's the pressurized system.
If this is a 2.7 engine, you might have a leaking bleeder housing. It's a black box that sits on the block. You should see a sensor and a bleeder screw on top and three hoses that connect to it. I sell 1 of those every two weeks. They develop a small crack and let coolant leak out.
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
I had a little leak that was causing me to put antifreeze in about every 2 weeks. I was told of bar leak to block leaks.That was then put into the hose of the radiator since it doesn't have the kind of radiator you can just pour it into. Now the car is fine when I drive but if I sit in park the needle goes to half and when I turn it off antifreeze boils over through the overflow hose and I can hear the bubbling . The reservoir then is empty in the morning when I check the car. Changed water pump and thermostat. I was told to maybe try to have the radiator flushed. The thing is this didn't start happening until the bar leak was placed in the radiator. Anyone has any ideas? The needle never gets to the half mark until I sit in park then this all happens. HELP!! Should I try to have radiator flushed?
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
What happened is the Bar's Leak plugged up the tubes on your radiator. Pull it and take it down to a radiator shop and have it boiled and rodded out. It shouldn't cost much more that $35 or $40 bucks. Maybe $50. During the boil and rod process, the person doing the work will also leak check it. When you get it back, put it back together and refill with water first. If you still notice leaks, if it is the radiator, take it back. If it is the block, add about a quarter of a teaspoon of regular black pepper. The grains of the pepper will plug most small leaks without bonding together and plugging the radiator the way Bar's Leak does.
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
I've had this problem before and had to get the radiator replaced. Good luck! Radiator's don't cost that much as far as I know. I purchased one for about 100$, you can check junk yards or search for used on eBay motors.
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
What happened is the Bar's Leak plugged up the tubes on your radiator. Pull it and take it down to a radiator shop and have it boiled and rodded out. It shouldn't cost much more that $35 or $40 bucks. Maybe $50. During the boil and rod process, the person doing the work will also leak check it. When you get it back, put it back together and refill with water first. If you still notice leaks, if it is the radiator, take it back. If it is the block, add about a quarter of a teaspoon of regular black pepper. The grains of the pepper will plug most small leaks without bonding together and plugging the radiator the way Bar's Leak does.
1997 Dodge intrepid antifreeze leaking through the overflow hose?
I've had this problem before and had to get the radiator replaced. Good luck! Radiator's don't cost that much as far as I know. I purchased one for about 100$, you can check junk yards or search for used on eBay motors.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
The temperature gauge goes to 220 degrees and the coiled hoses look ok. What can I do?
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
try a water pump.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
sensor maybe
does it really get hott or does it represent a fake temp
could be alot but check if the temp is real
if it is not most likely your sensor
Does it smoke when you crank the car, or does the oil look creamy like water in the oil, if so the head gasket is probably some thing to look at. The water pump is another part that needs to be looked at to see if it is making the coolant flow fast enough to cool. last it could just be the gauge, but if you smell something funny like antifreeze, or are loosing coolant then it probably is really running hot. If you can't work on it your self, I would take to a shop and ask them to quote you a price on fixing it, they will probably do this for free, You can discuss that at time of quote. this way you know what is wrong and don't have to spend money on the spot. Hope you have good luck.
Chris
220 degrees is probably OK if it doesn't blow out coolant.You have a pressure radiator cap so it can run above atmospheric boiling point.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
try a water pump.
I changed the radiator, the thermostat, and the fan clutch on 84 Chevy and the temperature gauge gets hot!
sensor maybe
does it really get hott or does it represent a fake temp
could be alot but check if the temp is real
if it is not most likely your sensor
Does it smoke when you crank the car, or does the oil look creamy like water in the oil, if so the head gasket is probably some thing to look at. The water pump is another part that needs to be looked at to see if it is making the coolant flow fast enough to cool. last it could just be the gauge, but if you smell something funny like antifreeze, or are loosing coolant then it probably is really running hot. If you can't work on it your self, I would take to a shop and ask them to quote you a price on fixing it, they will probably do this for free, You can discuss that at time of quote. this way you know what is wrong and don't have to spend money on the spot. Hope you have good luck.
Chris
220 degrees is probably OK if it doesn't blow out coolant.You have a pressure radiator cap so it can run above atmospheric boiling point.
Why does my 98 jeep grand cherokee continue to overheat?
i changed the radiator, the thermostat, thermostat housing, and flushed the system multiple times..i also took out the thermostat and it still overheats. the heat does not work, it just blows cold air and the upper rad hose has a lot of pressure in it after the thermostat opens. if i leave the cap off the rad then it will not overheat but i will lose fluid
Why does my 98 jeep grand cherokee continue to overheat?
1. Disconnect the heater lines at the core. Place a large container on top of the engine [higher the better]
2. Place hoses in the container %26amp; secure
3. Check the coolant. Make sure it's full.
4. Start the engine. Coolant should flow a a steady stream from one of the hoses.
5. If not - replace the water pump
6. If yes - then you may have a slight leak in a/the head gasket. Coolant does no always make its way through the crack. The pressures of combustion are much greater than the 15 PSI in the cooling system. Try to check the pressure within the cooling system. Normally around 15 PSI
18 - 20 PSI is high to extreme.
- - -
Why does my 98 jeep grand cherokee continue to overheat?
its a Jeep....
b/c u need a new car. its asking u to kill it!!!
Sounds like could be the water pump,your getting presure at the top hose because of no circulatiom
I wonder if you changed the radiator cap when you changed the radiator. If you did not, do that, the radiator cap's pressure spring may be stuck and if it can't %26quot;pop%26quot; when the ideal temerature hits, it will create too much pressure in your system. Pressure is heat, and you will blow something soon enough like that. Also, you did not say if you replaced your water pump. If this pump is broken, it is not spinning when the engine is on, and all the coolant inside of the block is basically sitting there, getting hotter. Change the pump and the cap, this could also be why hot fluid isn't getting to your heater core
Could be the water pump...the heater not working could be a couple of things but initially it could stem from the fact that your water pump is on the fritz.
If this is the case, you definitely would want to get this fixed immediately. Not having your engine cooled would result in astronomical repair costs which, unless you love your 98 like I love my 97, would make more sense to get a new (another) vehicle versus fixing that one...mine is (thankfully) paid for, though it rides rough due to the short wheel base, it is well maintained...
I like the fact of jumping into something that'll start at the drop of a hat, run like a leopard, looks good, and is PAID FOR versus having a $500 a month note for the next 6 years!
Get your water pump checked...this could very well be the root of your dilemma!
Some cooling systems have a thermostat which is a double effect thermostat meaning that it does two jobs.
You cannot replace it with any any thing that looks the same,It must be the thermostat for that engine,taking it out will not fix the problem.
Next thing to do is to check to see if the water pump is pumping the water,one way to check is to look in the top of the radiator and you will see if the water is moving,when you accelerate the motor,the water level should drop.
Is there a bleed valve on the cooling system?.Some systems need to be bled of air in the system.This will look like tyre valve on one of the hoses.
Are there bubbles of air in the radiator?,if so,when you rev the engine,are there more bubbles?,If so then it is more than probable that you have blown a head gasket and this is what is blowing your coolant out of the radiator and that is why there is a lot of pressure in the top radiator hose.msdn streamreader
Why does my 98 jeep grand cherokee continue to overheat?
1. Disconnect the heater lines at the core. Place a large container on top of the engine [higher the better]
2. Place hoses in the container %26amp; secure
3. Check the coolant. Make sure it's full.
4. Start the engine. Coolant should flow a a steady stream from one of the hoses.
5. If not - replace the water pump
6. If yes - then you may have a slight leak in a/the head gasket. Coolant does no always make its way through the crack. The pressures of combustion are much greater than the 15 PSI in the cooling system. Try to check the pressure within the cooling system. Normally around 15 PSI
18 - 20 PSI is high to extreme.
- - -
Why does my 98 jeep grand cherokee continue to overheat?
its a Jeep....
b/c u need a new car. its asking u to kill it!!!
Sounds like could be the water pump,your getting presure at the top hose because of no circulatiom
I wonder if you changed the radiator cap when you changed the radiator. If you did not, do that, the radiator cap's pressure spring may be stuck and if it can't %26quot;pop%26quot; when the ideal temerature hits, it will create too much pressure in your system. Pressure is heat, and you will blow something soon enough like that. Also, you did not say if you replaced your water pump. If this pump is broken, it is not spinning when the engine is on, and all the coolant inside of the block is basically sitting there, getting hotter. Change the pump and the cap, this could also be why hot fluid isn't getting to your heater core
Could be the water pump...the heater not working could be a couple of things but initially it could stem from the fact that your water pump is on the fritz.
If this is the case, you definitely would want to get this fixed immediately. Not having your engine cooled would result in astronomical repair costs which, unless you love your 98 like I love my 97, would make more sense to get a new (another) vehicle versus fixing that one...mine is (thankfully) paid for, though it rides rough due to the short wheel base, it is well maintained...
I like the fact of jumping into something that'll start at the drop of a hat, run like a leopard, looks good, and is PAID FOR versus having a $500 a month note for the next 6 years!
Get your water pump checked...this could very well be the root of your dilemma!
Some cooling systems have a thermostat which is a double effect thermostat meaning that it does two jobs.
You cannot replace it with any any thing that looks the same,It must be the thermostat for that engine,taking it out will not fix the problem.
Next thing to do is to check to see if the water pump is pumping the water,one way to check is to look in the top of the radiator and you will see if the water is moving,when you accelerate the motor,the water level should drop.
Is there a bleed valve on the cooling system?.Some systems need to be bled of air in the system.This will look like tyre valve on one of the hoses.
Are there bubbles of air in the radiator?,if so,when you rev the engine,are there more bubbles?,If so then it is more than probable that you have blown a head gasket and this is what is blowing your coolant out of the radiator and that is why there is a lot of pressure in the top radiator hose.
Radiator fluid question?
ok so i own a 92 honda prelude ..after about 5 mins of driving it the temperature guage will hit up to the middle ...so i park my car n u could hear the coolant boiling with pressure i open the hood and all the fluid is coming out through the reservoir tank ....and all the hoses are packed with pressure..why is this happening..i already changed the radiator cap n flushed the old fluid n put the 50/50
Radiator fluid question?
Plugged radiator?
Bad water pump?
Bad radiator hose?
Blown head gasket?
Leak in the cooling system?
Take it to a radiator shop and get things checked out before you fry the engine.
Radiator fluid question?
change out the thermostat
you should check if the thermostat is not gettint stuck closed if ok check cooling fan
You have a plugged radiator have it removed and cleaned or better yet a new one is best.
if the temp guage is in the middle, and the coolant is boiling, then you have a bad temp guage. the overheating was answered by a previous person. any of the causes they listed could be it, or a combination of several. be prepared for a good size repair bill. if you ignore it you will destroy the motor
change the thermostat.
Replace the Thermostat, check the Hoses and Clamps again. You're losing Pressure Somewhere, along with a Bad Thermostat that is causing the Boiling. Make sure the Thermostat is Pointing the Right way and Centered properly so it will Open %26amp; Close Corroectly. Bad Tune-up or Excessively Lean Fuel Mix. will also contribute to the Overheat.
Radiator fluid question?
Plugged radiator?
Bad water pump?
Bad radiator hose?
Blown head gasket?
Leak in the cooling system?
Take it to a radiator shop and get things checked out before you fry the engine.
Radiator fluid question?
change out the thermostat
you should check if the thermostat is not gettint stuck closed if ok check cooling fan
You have a plugged radiator have it removed and cleaned or better yet a new one is best.
if the temp guage is in the middle, and the coolant is boiling, then you have a bad temp guage. the overheating was answered by a previous person. any of the causes they listed could be it, or a combination of several. be prepared for a good size repair bill. if you ignore it you will destroy the motor
change the thermostat.
Replace the Thermostat, check the Hoses and Clamps again. You're losing Pressure Somewhere, along with a Bad Thermostat that is causing the Boiling. Make sure the Thermostat is Pointing the Right way and Centered properly so it will Open %26amp; Close Corroectly. Bad Tune-up or Excessively Lean Fuel Mix. will also contribute to the Overheat.
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
My car continues to overheat and my husband has replaced the radiator, the hoses and the coolant resevoir. So we think it must be the thermostat. Is it fairly easy to replace for someone who replaced the radiator himself?
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
go to a BMW mechanic or dealer
How do you change the thermostat on a 98 BMW 323is?
go to a BMW mechanic or dealer
Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
I own a 1999 Ford Explorer but my wife is the primary driver of the vehicle. A few days ago she was on her way to work and left a huge trail of anti-freeze behind her. Later that day I checked the system for leaks and found what looked like a leaky lower radiator hose. I removed the hose to change it and upon inspection there were no tears. I reinstalled the hose, figuring the clamp was not seated properly, and the leak has been gone ever since.
I drove the Explorer today to make sure it is working properly and the temp gauge constantly goes above the center (190 degree). Today, it actually started drifting to the overheat position on my 5 minute ride home. When I got home, I left the car running and squeezed both hoses to feel for good flow. The upper hose definitely had good flow. The lower seemed like it had good flow also, but I'm not 100 percent. The line was pressurized but it got so hot under there I couldn't get a good feel for the flow. A bunch of coolant did come out of the hose while it was removed.
Could this be signs of a thermostat going bad? The only other thing I can think of is a bad water pump and that's only if I was wrong about the coolant flow in the lower radiator hose.
Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
The odd thing is that you said it lost lots of water, but you never said you put any in or checked its level?
You really should have.
If you are at all in doubt about the thermostat, then change it.
It only cost $3.
It should not take more than a few minutes I would guess.
The way to test a thermostat is to start with a cold engine.
Touch both radiator hoses, and they will both be cold.
Start the engine.
One will slowly get warmer. That is the return side that does not have the thermostat.
The other side should stay cold until the engine reaches proper operating temperature, and then instantly get hot.
It both get warm slowly, or the one delays too long before getting hot, then the thermostat is bad.
Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
yes, water pumps rarely stop working, they just leak.
I drove the Explorer today to make sure it is working properly and the temp gauge constantly goes above the center (190 degree). Today, it actually started drifting to the overheat position on my 5 minute ride home. When I got home, I left the car running and squeezed both hoses to feel for good flow. The upper hose definitely had good flow. The lower seemed like it had good flow also, but I'm not 100 percent. The line was pressurized but it got so hot under there I couldn't get a good feel for the flow. A bunch of coolant did come out of the hose while it was removed.
Could this be signs of a thermostat going bad? The only other thing I can think of is a bad water pump and that's only if I was wrong about the coolant flow in the lower radiator hose.
Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
The odd thing is that you said it lost lots of water, but you never said you put any in or checked its level?
You really should have.
If you are at all in doubt about the thermostat, then change it.
It only cost $3.
It should not take more than a few minutes I would guess.
The way to test a thermostat is to start with a cold engine.
Touch both radiator hoses, and they will both be cold.
Start the engine.
One will slowly get warmer. That is the return side that does not have the thermostat.
The other side should stay cold until the engine reaches proper operating temperature, and then instantly get hot.
It both get warm slowly, or the one delays too long before getting hot, then the thermostat is bad.
Are these symptoms of a bad thermostat?
yes, water pumps rarely stop working, they just leak.
Changing car coolant?
(i dont plan on reverse flush), just flush, fill and go. When i am running hose water through radiator(with petcock open) to flush, should car be running, dumb question, hurts to ask, but thanks
Changing car coolant?
No... When I did it I didn't have it on... not sure that's a good idea..
Changing car coolant?
Yes it helps clean out the engine as well.
Keep an eye on the temp and keep the radiator topped off.
run the car with the heater on the fan on high.run the water into the radiator just dont let it empty while running the car.running the heater will flush the heater core also.
no it should not be running the coolant gets very hot and if it splashes out on you it will burn you very badly!
Your car should be running but if its not getting hot idling you don't need to flush unless its really dirty
Changing car coolant?
No... When I did it I didn't have it on... not sure that's a good idea..
Changing car coolant?
Yes it helps clean out the engine as well.
Keep an eye on the temp and keep the radiator topped off.
run the car with the heater on the fan on high.run the water into the radiator just dont let it empty while running the car.running the heater will flush the heater core also.
no it should not be running the coolant gets very hot and if it splashes out on you it will burn you very badly!
Your car should be running but if its not getting hot idling you don't need to flush unless its really dirty
92 Mustang GT overheating?
Back in march it overheated one day with out notice. Never had a leak or wet spot in the garage at all or anything and one day boom it happened. Came to find out it was the water pump. Had the water pump replaced, drove car for a week and bam ,started over heating again. Replaced thermostat a few weeks later, still O H. Had a compression test done and nothing is leaking or losing compression. Head gasket is fine no smoke or water in oil. Just looked today and the top radiator hose looked loose and to my surprise the piece that the hose goes over was completely off. So now i know it needs new radiator. But I've noticed before this inside radiator is all white and looks corroded. Could this be my cause of OH? Ive tried everything that everyone has told me. Also how hard is it to change the radiator?
Thanks
92 Mustang GT overheating?
The white inside could be lime left-over from the overheating. Pulling the radiator is a drive way afternoon, if the weather is decent. While you have it apart, replace both radiator hoses. I think the Mustang radiator is the same as the Crown Vickie, %26amp; if you're going to keep the car, spent the extra couple of bucks for the heavy duty radiator with extra cooling cores.
92 Mustang GT overheating?
this is a trick - its out there - and its old
drain its - coffee filter it - add water and 2 gallons white vinegar - run it till hot - its mild acid thing - isopropyl rubbing alcohol - below 32 degrees add - radiator cap off - it will free up or leak
ask mom how she cleans coffee makerWill giving my 6 week old cryptoapi vs capicom
Thanks
92 Mustang GT overheating?
The white inside could be lime left-over from the overheating. Pulling the radiator is a drive way afternoon, if the weather is decent. While you have it apart, replace both radiator hoses. I think the Mustang radiator is the same as the Crown Vickie, %26amp; if you're going to keep the car, spent the extra couple of bucks for the heavy duty radiator with extra cooling cores.
92 Mustang GT overheating?
this is a trick - its out there - and its old
drain its - coffee filter it - add water and 2 gallons white vinegar - run it till hot - its mild acid thing - isopropyl rubbing alcohol - below 32 degrees add - radiator cap off - it will free up or leak
ask mom how she cleans coffee maker
How do i fix overheating problem?
I have a 97 Acura 3.2 TL that keeps overheating. It was ok until it overheated on my sister, than after that I haven't been able to fix it. I've changed the radiator, coolant sensor, thermostat, water pump, and upper radiator hose. Just about all I can think about other than the head gasket. Every time I put in something new thinking it's the problem and take it for a test drive the pressure builds up so high that it pushes all the coolant out from the reservoir. Please help!!!
How do i fix overheating problem?
you may think this is a stupid question, but is the fan hooked up? I had a mechanic change my water pump and he forgot to plug my fan back in.
How do i fix overheating problem?
what you can do to eliminate or confirm a head gasket problem is to go to pep boys or even harbor freight tools and purchase a head / block test kit for around $15.00 follow the directions and you will know from there.
if you have a weak radiator cap, that will cause the coolant to be forced out of the radiator before it's time, take the cap to your local repair shop and have them test the cap, it should hold the pressure that is indicated on the top. usually it ranges from 13psi to 18 psi
a good way to know if it is the head gasket is to check for bad exhaust. if you have white smoke coming from the exhaust or any water leaking then it is definitely a blown head gasket. this sounds like an obstructed hose maybe a hose that leads to the engine collapsed or is clogged so u must check every single hose that has coolant running through it. if the coolant is pushing out of the reservoir it is not holding the pressure which means you need a new reservoir cap that may be the main issue. the reservoir cap has a gasket which may be worn out because im guessing you still have the stock one from 1997. I had the same problem with my car i have a 1995 grand am trust me things are going to start wearing out like this. check the reservoir cap if it looks deteriorated then replace it.
good luck
Head Gasket
Sounds like it could be the head gasket, cracked block or head. Try a compression test. Could be a blockage in the cooling system too, not common but not unheard of. Also as mentioned, is the cooling fan connected/kicking in?
How do i fix overheating problem?
you may think this is a stupid question, but is the fan hooked up? I had a mechanic change my water pump and he forgot to plug my fan back in.
How do i fix overheating problem?
what you can do to eliminate or confirm a head gasket problem is to go to pep boys or even harbor freight tools and purchase a head / block test kit for around $15.00 follow the directions and you will know from there.
if you have a weak radiator cap, that will cause the coolant to be forced out of the radiator before it's time, take the cap to your local repair shop and have them test the cap, it should hold the pressure that is indicated on the top. usually it ranges from 13psi to 18 psi
a good way to know if it is the head gasket is to check for bad exhaust. if you have white smoke coming from the exhaust or any water leaking then it is definitely a blown head gasket. this sounds like an obstructed hose maybe a hose that leads to the engine collapsed or is clogged so u must check every single hose that has coolant running through it. if the coolant is pushing out of the reservoir it is not holding the pressure which means you need a new reservoir cap that may be the main issue. the reservoir cap has a gasket which may be worn out because im guessing you still have the stock one from 1997. I had the same problem with my car i have a 1995 grand am trust me things are going to start wearing out like this. check the reservoir cap if it looks deteriorated then replace it.
good luck
Head Gasket
Sounds like it could be the head gasket, cracked block or head. Try a compression test. Could be a blockage in the cooling system too, not common but not unheard of. Also as mentioned, is the cooling fan connected/kicking in?
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
2001 dodge Intrepid 2.7. Changed the radiator, thermostat, hoses and such mut why is it doing this? Going to change the water pump tomorrow
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
Sorry to find this funny but you seem to be in the same boat as me but ive got a nissan patrol.
Now have you checked to see if your clutch fan is going? Check this.
How is your thermo fan?
When does it occour, when your going stoped, on the highway etc?
Are you loosing water or oil?
Hows your timming?
Keep us updated and good luck.
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
hope you didn't warp anything?
well for starters check the oil and then if that aint the problem then look for leaks clocked hoses
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
Sorry to find this funny but you seem to be in the same boat as me but ive got a nissan patrol.
Now have you checked to see if your clutch fan is going? Check this.
How is your thermo fan?
When does it occour, when your going stoped, on the highway etc?
Are you loosing water or oil?
Hows your timming?
Keep us updated and good luck.
It still overheats after running for 5 hours.?
hope you didn't warp anything?
well for starters check the oil and then if that aint the problem then look for leaks clocked hoses
2001 Saturn SC1 Radiator Drain Plug?
Water is shooting out when started. Changed the hose and it still is happening. Could the drain bolt be missing? If so is located right by the hose down under? I really need to get this fixed and I don't wan to pay the price at the shop.
2001 Saturn SC1 Radiator Drain Plug?
How about telling us where the water is shooting out from? Your drain plug is located on the bottom of your radiator. Start the car up and see where it is coming from.
2001 Saturn SC1 Radiator Drain Plug?
If the drain plug is missing it won't take long for yoru fluid to completely exit the system. I doubt your drain plug is missing. You need to find the source of where your fluid is shooting out. You need to open the hood and try and locate the source, but take great care as that fluid will be very hot.
I bought a Chilton book for an Ion, not the same, but the radiator drain plug for mine is, when looking up from under the car, hidden behind some of the frame, but from the top, looking down under the hood, isn't hard to see as it is to reach (skinny arms helpful), and isn't very big, so it took a good look. I Hope you didn't lose it, if it's like mine, it won't be fun to replace.
it sounds more like the radiator has a hole in it. if and when you find the hole then use some jb weld on the hole, let it sit for about a hour or 2 before filling it back up.
2001 Saturn SC1 Radiator Drain Plug?
How about telling us where the water is shooting out from? Your drain plug is located on the bottom of your radiator. Start the car up and see where it is coming from.
2001 Saturn SC1 Radiator Drain Plug?
If the drain plug is missing it won't take long for yoru fluid to completely exit the system. I doubt your drain plug is missing. You need to find the source of where your fluid is shooting out. You need to open the hood and try and locate the source, but take great care as that fluid will be very hot.
I bought a Chilton book for an Ion, not the same, but the radiator drain plug for mine is, when looking up from under the car, hidden behind some of the frame, but from the top, looking down under the hood, isn't hard to see as it is to reach (skinny arms helpful), and isn't very big, so it took a good look. I Hope you didn't lose it, if it's like mine, it won't be fun to replace.
it sounds more like the radiator has a hole in it. if and when you find the hole then use some jb weld on the hole, let it sit for about a hour or 2 before filling it back up.
Water is not staying in radiator?
Heads gaskets replaced, new radiator, new water pump, oil change etc. I have to fill the radiator everyday with water. There are no leaks or puddles on the concrete. Water does not bubble with cap off and engine on and there is no water in the oil or coming out of the tailpipe. The previous owner took the water reservoir out to make room for a cold air intake. There is no water reservoir nor a hose running from the radiator to the reservoir. There is just an opening where a hose would go by the radiator cap. Could the missing reservoir and hose be the cause of the water leaking from the radiator? 1995 Honda Accord EX VTec.
Water is not staying in radiator?
Yes. Water expands when you heat it.
When the pressure rises the radiator cap vents to that reservoir,
and the water is drawn back when it cools.
That's why you're loosing water.
That reservoir, and its tubing are necessary.
(The 'previous owner' was an A**H*le not to warn you about this.)
Water is not staying in radiator?
Yes
Water is not staying in radiator?
Yes. Water expands when you heat it.
When the pressure rises the radiator cap vents to that reservoir,
and the water is drawn back when it cools.
That's why you're loosing water.
That reservoir, and its tubing are necessary.
(The 'previous owner' was an A**H*le not to warn you about this.)
Water is not staying in radiator?
Yes
How to change a thermostat on a 2002 dodge stratus 2.7?
I know u hav to follow a hose from the radiator to sum thing and the thermostat goes there, but i can't take that thing off because there is sum strange looking black thing on top of the fourth bolt i have to take off. I cant take that black thing off i've taken all the bolts off on the top of it but it wont come off. I need to know how that thing comes off or if there is another way to change the thermostat
How to change a thermostat on a 2002 dodge stratus 2.7?
that t-stat is on the passenger side of the engine block. i think you have to get it from the wheel well if i remember right.
How to change a thermostat on a 2002 dodge stratus 2.7?
id sell that asap those cars become nothin but troubleblocked myspace graphics animation
How to change a thermostat on a 2002 dodge stratus 2.7?
that t-stat is on the passenger side of the engine block. i think you have to get it from the wheel well if i remember right.
How to change a thermostat on a 2002 dodge stratus 2.7?
id sell that asap those cars become nothin but trouble
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
My radiator was leaking, I changed the radiator and all the hoses and when I got done water was shooting out of the tailpipe... what the heck is going on there? It acted like the thermostat was stuck, because there was alot of pressure on the hoses, so I took the thermostat out and there is still alot of pressure on the hoses and it shot water out of the tailpipe. it is weird. If you can help me with this I sure would appreciate it.Thank you very much.
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
hyouve aa blown hEad gasket
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
are you putting water in the engine coolant tank
did you overheat the engine?, sounds like you have a bad head gasket.
You have a severely cracked head,not you ...the cars head.
You need to replace your head gasket.
Have fun. O_o%26quot;
bad head gasket,cracked head or cracked block. if you don't have right tools to diagnose take it in
Blown head gasket. It's going to cost you at least $700.
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
hyouve aa blown hEad gasket
Can you help me with this problem I have with my car?
are you putting water in the engine coolant tank
did you overheat the engine?, sounds like you have a bad head gasket.
You have a severely cracked head,not you ...the cars head.
You need to replace your head gasket.
Have fun. O_o%26quot;
bad head gasket,cracked head or cracked block. if you don't have right tools to diagnose take it in
Blown head gasket. It's going to cost you at least $700.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
I've changed everything but the temp sensor I dnt know if its sending the wrong info because even when I have the a/c on and fans are working it still over heats. I've done everything bleeded the air out and changed hoses and still the same
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
Are you sure it's overheating? You can't always trust the gauge on the dash. A mechanic needs to check the temp of the radiator using an infrared meter or a mechanical temp gauge. Other than that, suspect a head gasket leak, or maybe the timing is off, or some water passage is blocked somewhere. Flushing the radiator doesn't necessarily mean the radiator is now clear either.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
You may want to check for blown head gasket. Was the car over heated before you replace all those cooling parts?
Check and adjust the timing with a time pistol maybe is just that, check if is any water on your oil lets hope there is nothing there and is just the timing. other wise maybe you have a crack head, Also make sure you have the correct cap in the radiator maybe is just that the pressure that goes with that particular car because you maybe have a bad cap and that will be simple buy a new one in any auto parts.
I hope is nothing mayor and you will be a happy driver again.
Sounds like maybe the radiator core could use a good professional rod-out. But are you sure it is really running hot and that the coolant temperature sensor signal is not faulty? I suggest you use a radiator temperature thermometer (or a meat thermometer) to probe the coolant temp to verify the temperature sensor signal.
check the head gasket. and get a new radiator. they run for about 300 but its worth not having to spend 1000 for head work. if it constantly overheats u may already need headwork
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
Are you sure it's overheating? You can't always trust the gauge on the dash. A mechanic needs to check the temp of the radiator using an infrared meter or a mechanical temp gauge. Other than that, suspect a head gasket leak, or maybe the timing is off, or some water passage is blocked somewhere. Flushing the radiator doesn't necessarily mean the radiator is now clear either.
My 97 camaro is overheating. ive changed the water pump thermostat flushed d radiator new coolant?
You may want to check for blown head gasket. Was the car over heated before you replace all those cooling parts?
Check and adjust the timing with a time pistol maybe is just that, check if is any water on your oil lets hope there is nothing there and is just the timing. other wise maybe you have a crack head, Also make sure you have the correct cap in the radiator maybe is just that the pressure that goes with that particular car because you maybe have a bad cap and that will be simple buy a new one in any auto parts.
I hope is nothing mayor and you will be a happy driver again.
Sounds like maybe the radiator core could use a good professional rod-out. But are you sure it is really running hot and that the coolant temperature sensor signal is not faulty? I suggest you use a radiator temperature thermometer (or a meat thermometer) to probe the coolant temp to verify the temperature sensor signal.
check the head gasket. and get a new radiator. they run for about 300 but its worth not having to spend 1000 for head work. if it constantly overheats u may already need headwork
1993 ford explorer wont start?
i have a 1993 ford explorer that i let someone use. it blew the top radiator hose and blew coolant all over the engine .he pulled over and called me. when i went to fix it he said he tried to add water and start it but it would not start, so i tried to start it up before i changed the hose and seemed like it there was no spark.
i got it home and changed the coil pack thinking it shorted it out,but no change.
will it still start with no water in radiator?
can it short something else out getting soaked that would cause it not to start?
it sometimes sounds like it wants to fire but not enough to start.
any suggestions?
1993 ford explorer wont start?
Dose the motor sound diffrent when you turn the motor over? (Trying to start the motor)
1993 ford explorer wont start?
first add water then with the rad cap removed, crank eng see if water shoots out of the radaitor.if so you might have a blone head gasket.do a comp check to see if you have eny compreshion.if it does then try to hold the gas peddel all the way down, ang keep cranking the eng but not to long you will burn out the starter.and also check the spark at the plugs.
# 1 get water in it, you will damage the water pump seal if it runs without water / coolant. Next check the throttle position sensor located on the throttle body, it my be wet /damaged. If you have a distributor there may be moisture in or on the dist.. If you have a real dark garage take it in there and after dark open the hood, have someone crank the starter and watch carefully from all angles for obvious sparks that indicate a short or ground. This method can save a lot of time.
.if your engine was in good running condition before ,,it should start by now,,what happen is you flooded the engine when you tried to start it while its still wet with coolant ,since it should be dried by now and the gas inside the engine evaporate it should start,,,
yes it will still run with out water ,but only to test ,do not driv e
but if still wont start check spark plug or replace if you have not have a tune up yet.. the reason is sometimes when the old spark plug got soak with gas and it try to fire ,they get
fouled up ..
make sure everything is dry before you try to start it again, clean coolant around engine,
always remember that when you start a car for a long time
lot of unburned gas stay inside the cylinder causing it more not to start,
i got it home and changed the coil pack thinking it shorted it out,but no change.
will it still start with no water in radiator?
can it short something else out getting soaked that would cause it not to start?
it sometimes sounds like it wants to fire but not enough to start.
any suggestions?
1993 ford explorer wont start?
Dose the motor sound diffrent when you turn the motor over? (Trying to start the motor)
1993 ford explorer wont start?
first add water then with the rad cap removed, crank eng see if water shoots out of the radaitor.if so you might have a blone head gasket.do a comp check to see if you have eny compreshion.if it does then try to hold the gas peddel all the way down, ang keep cranking the eng but not to long you will burn out the starter.and also check the spark at the plugs.
# 1 get water in it, you will damage the water pump seal if it runs without water / coolant. Next check the throttle position sensor located on the throttle body, it my be wet /damaged. If you have a distributor there may be moisture in or on the dist.. If you have a real dark garage take it in there and after dark open the hood, have someone crank the starter and watch carefully from all angles for obvious sparks that indicate a short or ground. This method can save a lot of time.
.if your engine was in good running condition before ,,it should start by now,,what happen is you flooded the engine when you tried to start it while its still wet with coolant ,since it should be dried by now and the gas inside the engine evaporate it should start,,,
yes it will still run with out water ,but only to test ,do not driv e
but if still wont start check spark plug or replace if you have not have a tune up yet.. the reason is sometimes when the old spark plug got soak with gas and it try to fire ,they get
fouled up ..
make sure everything is dry before you try to start it again, clean coolant around engine,
always remember that when you start a car for a long time
lot of unburned gas stay inside the cylinder causing it more not to start,
IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
I have a 1990 GMC K1500 Sierra and about 1 week ago I went to check the anti-freeze level. I noticed it was a tiny bit down. So I look down at the lower radiator hose and it had a slow drip. So the next day I changed the anti-freeze, New thermostat, and a New lower radiator hose. So I thought it was fine but yesterday I went to go check the anti-freeze and the level was down. I look at the lower radiator hose and it has a slow drip again. The hose I replace was Brand New. Could this be a water pump? I did notice a tiny bit of anti-freeze on the water pump. Or what could this be or do I have to change the hose again?
IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
If the water pump is leaking, there should be a trail of coolant going down the engine. Gotta find where the leak is coming from to determine what to replace. Upper hose, clamps, radiator? Sometimes ya gotta hose off all the antifreeze, let it dry, then look. Good luck.
IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
no
it could be the water pump. if you can wipe off the hose and try to pin point when the leak is coming from....it could be there is a leak higher up perhaps on the radiator, but is settling on the lower hose, making it seem like that is where it is leaking from
could be the seal in the bottom of the water has gone bad. Take it to a garage and have them hook it up and do a pressure test, that should tell you where the leak is.
Take a small mirror if you can and look under the water pump, It has a small %26quot;weep%26quot; hole there, and if the pump seals are going bad, you will see antifreeze dripping from there.
Yes you need a waterpump. There isa weephole on the bottom that will
leak right down yourlower radiator hose.
when changing anti-freeze did u run car for pump to kick on that could be why level is low
look at the bottom of the water pump best done from on the ground. you will see a small hole at the bottom this is called a weep hole. if you see anti-freeze at the weep hole then the water pump seal is bad and the pump needs replaced. a lot of time the weep hole will leak and run down the hose. if the pump is not leaking then tighten the hose clamp.
If its the water pump, you should see the trail of antifreeze coming out of the small hole on the bottom of the pump. When the seal in the pump goes bad, the water leaks past it and out the hole. It lets you know when the seal has gone out
here,s what to do. when it,s dripping look under the car and see if it,s running down the hose. it could be coming from the top of the hose like maybe the top clamp is,nt tight enough or it could be coming from the water pump. if it turns out to be the hose then do like i do. i put some ( indian head shellac ) around the inside of the hoses then i put it on. that will stop it from leaking if it,s the hose.
You should have bought the BMW M3!!!! Which engine is in your Sierra??? You are probably right about the water pump. Be aware that many GM engines (V-6's) have intake manifold and IM leaks that require attention. Apparently, there is a bad chemical reaction between the Dex-cool coolant, and the nylon and rubber compounds in the Intake system. This would account for coolant loss. ADVICE: fix the problem, and then switch to Mercedes Benz coolant, to prevent the return of EITHER issue. Good Luck!!
It could be intake lower manifold gaskit leaking over front of engine.GM had an issue with this.
It could be dripping out the weep hole on the bottom of the waterpump and with the fan pulley in place you really can't see the weep hole, if it is leaking you need to replace the pump as it's on it's way out, get it checked out.
IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
If the water pump is leaking, there should be a trail of coolant going down the engine. Gotta find where the leak is coming from to determine what to replace. Upper hose, clamps, radiator? Sometimes ya gotta hose off all the antifreeze, let it dry, then look. Good luck.
IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
no
it could be the water pump. if you can wipe off the hose and try to pin point when the leak is coming from....it could be there is a leak higher up perhaps on the radiator, but is settling on the lower hose, making it seem like that is where it is leaking from
could be the seal in the bottom of the water has gone bad. Take it to a garage and have them hook it up and do a pressure test, that should tell you where the leak is.
Take a small mirror if you can and look under the water pump, It has a small %26quot;weep%26quot; hole there, and if the pump seals are going bad, you will see antifreeze dripping from there.
Yes you need a waterpump. There isa weephole on the bottom that will
leak right down yourlower radiator hose.
when changing anti-freeze did u run car for pump to kick on that could be why level is low
look at the bottom of the water pump best done from on the ground. you will see a small hole at the bottom this is called a weep hole. if you see anti-freeze at the weep hole then the water pump seal is bad and the pump needs replaced. a lot of time the weep hole will leak and run down the hose. if the pump is not leaking then tighten the hose clamp.
If its the water pump, you should see the trail of antifreeze coming out of the small hole on the bottom of the pump. When the seal in the pump goes bad, the water leaks past it and out the hole. It lets you know when the seal has gone out
here,s what to do. when it,s dripping look under the car and see if it,s running down the hose. it could be coming from the top of the hose like maybe the top clamp is,nt tight enough or it could be coming from the water pump. if it turns out to be the hose then do like i do. i put some ( indian head shellac ) around the inside of the hoses then i put it on. that will stop it from leaking if it,s the hose.
You should have bought the BMW M3!!!! Which engine is in your Sierra??? You are probably right about the water pump. Be aware that many GM engines (V-6's) have intake manifold and IM leaks that require attention. Apparently, there is a bad chemical reaction between the Dex-cool coolant, and the nylon and rubber compounds in the Intake system. This would account for coolant loss. ADVICE: fix the problem, and then switch to Mercedes Benz coolant, to prevent the return of EITHER issue. Good Luck!!
It could be intake lower manifold gaskit leaking over front of engine.GM had an issue with this.
It could be dripping out the weep hole on the bottom of the waterpump and with the fan pulley in place you really can't see the weep hole, if it is leaking you need to replace the pump as it's on it's way out, get it checked out.
How to find out where heater core is in my 1996 dodge neon?
i would like to now where it is on my car and how hard is it to change it and where it is my top radiator hose is really hard and it got hot today and the warning light came on i would really like to now where this thing is ok thank you
How to find out where heater core is in my 1996 dodge neon?
the radiator hoses are suppose to be hard (coolant has #16 of pressure),
and what warning light came on?, there are so many. and what makes you direct your attention to the radiator??? I think you are going the wrong way , anyway the heater core is inside the box that also carries the a/c evaporator, need to remove the dash, the a/c lines in the engine compartment, the heater hose, so give to a professional, you'll save yourself a lot of grief
How to find out where heater core is in my 1996 dodge neon?
the heater core may not be what caused it go get hot like that,the top hose is real easy to see its that one on top of the radiator,to remove the heater core though you have to remove the heater box and that does require the dash to be loosened enough to slide it back out of the way then you can remove the heater box assembly,but makes sure that's what is needed before you remove it, that's a lot of work to do to one without knowing for sure,good luck.
Heater cores are generally located under the dash inside the car on the passenger side. It's not hard to change but it is full of coolant. So take precautions if it truly needs to be changed. If your warning lite came on on it's probably not the core. Check your radiator fluid and thermostat first. Those are the first and easier quick fixes to check. Heater cores aren't normally the problem.
It is behind the dash on the passenger side of the car. The dash must come out of the car. On some vehicles, the windshield must be removed in order to remove the dash. A qualified technician could probably do the job in 6 hours.
http://media.photobucket.com/image/heate鈥?/a>excel graphics animation
How to find out where heater core is in my 1996 dodge neon?
the radiator hoses are suppose to be hard (coolant has #16 of pressure),
and what warning light came on?, there are so many. and what makes you direct your attention to the radiator??? I think you are going the wrong way , anyway the heater core is inside the box that also carries the a/c evaporator, need to remove the dash, the a/c lines in the engine compartment, the heater hose, so give to a professional, you'll save yourself a lot of grief
How to find out where heater core is in my 1996 dodge neon?
the heater core may not be what caused it go get hot like that,the top hose is real easy to see its that one on top of the radiator,to remove the heater core though you have to remove the heater box and that does require the dash to be loosened enough to slide it back out of the way then you can remove the heater box assembly,but makes sure that's what is needed before you remove it, that's a lot of work to do to one without knowing for sure,good luck.
Heater cores are generally located under the dash inside the car on the passenger side. It's not hard to change but it is full of coolant. So take precautions if it truly needs to be changed. If your warning lite came on on it's probably not the core. Check your radiator fluid and thermostat first. Those are the first and easier quick fixes to check. Heater cores aren't normally the problem.
It is behind the dash on the passenger side of the car. The dash must come out of the car. On some vehicles, the windshield must be removed in order to remove the dash. A qualified technician could probably do the job in 6 hours.
http://media.photobucket.com/image/heate鈥?/a>
Anyone know where to find the water pump on a 1997 ford Contour? I am having problems with it overheating!!?
top radiator hose busted and car died. i have replaced the hose, thermostat, spark plugs and wires but it continues to overheat so the next thing to do, i guess, is to change the water pump out but I can't see it. Any other suggestions?
Anyone know where to find the water pump on a 1997 ford Contour? I am having problems with it overheating!!?
Depends on the motor. But my bet is you're looking on the wrong side of the motor. Look at the trans side of the motor and you'll see a belt driven by the cam with a small tensioner and then, your water pump.
Oh also, common problem with these is actually the tensioner seizing and not holding tension on the belt, not usually the water pump. Check to see if that belt is tight.
Anyone know where to find the water pump on a 1997 ford Contour? I am having problems with it overheating!!?
same prb with one of my fathers cars .he got contour as well ..water pump u can buy it from napa auto parts or any other popular auto part store is like 70 $$ .its on the right bottom side
Anyone know where to find the water pump on a 1997 ford Contour? I am having problems with it overheating!!?
Depends on the motor. But my bet is you're looking on the wrong side of the motor. Look at the trans side of the motor and you'll see a belt driven by the cam with a small tensioner and then, your water pump.
Oh also, common problem with these is actually the tensioner seizing and not holding tension on the belt, not usually the water pump. Check to see if that belt is tight.
Anyone know where to find the water pump on a 1997 ford Contour? I am having problems with it overheating!!?
same prb with one of my fathers cars .he got contour as well ..water pump u can buy it from napa auto parts or any other popular auto part store is like 70 $$ .its on the right bottom side
01 Dodge Gr Caravan temp gauge on cold, little heat, radiator fans not running?
On my way home tonight, drove 70 miles and the temp gauge stayed on cold and the heater blew only luke warm air. When I arrived at home, I checked the one hose I saw, and it was very warm, but not hot. I looked around some more and noticed the two radiator fans were not running. I turned the heater on and off and no difference. I then turned off the motor and looked around some more, restarted the engine, no change. Turned it off, let it cool down a bit, then pulled the radiator cap off, and massaged the hose. The radiator level went up and down, so it's not clogged. As I massaged it, the hose got hot, so I'm sure the coolant wasn't flowing through the hose before.
So, between the cold gauge, little heat, no flowing coolant and radiator fans not running, what's my problem? Water pump? Thermostat? Radiator fans relay? Radiator?
Thanks,
01 Dodge Gr Caravan temp gauge on cold, little heat, radiator fans not running?
bad Thermostat.. it is stuck open. common problem.
When it is operating correctly, it opens and closes at a predetermined temperature point.
01 Dodge Gr Caravan temp gauge on cold, little heat, radiator fans not running?
ok I`ve gone over this and gone over this time and time again it all boils down to one thing its your THERMOSTAT happy thanksgiving and MERRY christmas
Rockingv,
It is your thermostat.....Change it and all will be well...
Thank goodness it isn't hot out side and you didn't have to sit in traffic with no forced air flow.
Lets go one item at the time,
If the water pump wasn't working you would have no water flow or more correctly no forced coolant flow, the only way this could happen is if the fins were not turning in the pump. This could only happen if the drive belt came off or if the fins themselves broke off are did not turn with the shaft. Either is possible.
A bad thermostat stuck closed would not allow the water to flow and you would have over heating. One that is stuck open would allow the water to flow unrestricted even at a cold temperature causing warm up to take a long time. And at highway speed driving in cool air even longer. Fan relays would mean that the fans did not come on when they should which would also be a overheating situation.
Radiator itself being plugged would again not allow coolant to flow causing an overheating problem.
Try placing something to restrict the air flow in front of the radiator if the coolant heats up and the fans kick on then you have coolant flow, if the inside heater is still cold then question the heater core if all is hot then question the difference which would be the air flow. That all being said change out the thermostat.
So, between the cold gauge, little heat, no flowing coolant and radiator fans not running, what's my problem? Water pump? Thermostat? Radiator fans relay? Radiator?
Thanks,
01 Dodge Gr Caravan temp gauge on cold, little heat, radiator fans not running?
bad Thermostat.. it is stuck open. common problem.
When it is operating correctly, it opens and closes at a predetermined temperature point.
01 Dodge Gr Caravan temp gauge on cold, little heat, radiator fans not running?
ok I`ve gone over this and gone over this time and time again it all boils down to one thing its your THERMOSTAT happy thanksgiving and MERRY christmas
Rockingv,
It is your thermostat.....Change it and all will be well...
Thank goodness it isn't hot out side and you didn't have to sit in traffic with no forced air flow.
Lets go one item at the time,
If the water pump wasn't working you would have no water flow or more correctly no forced coolant flow, the only way this could happen is if the fins were not turning in the pump. This could only happen if the drive belt came off or if the fins themselves broke off are did not turn with the shaft. Either is possible.
A bad thermostat stuck closed would not allow the water to flow and you would have over heating. One that is stuck open would allow the water to flow unrestricted even at a cold temperature causing warm up to take a long time. And at highway speed driving in cool air even longer. Fan relays would mean that the fans did not come on when they should which would also be a overheating situation.
Radiator itself being plugged would again not allow coolant to flow causing an overheating problem.
Try placing something to restrict the air flow in front of the radiator if the coolant heats up and the fans kick on then you have coolant flow, if the inside heater is still cold then question the heater core if all is hot then question the difference which would be the air flow. That all being said change out the thermostat.
Honda Civic EG 94 Radiator/ Electrical issues.?
My Car Honda civic EG 94 3door hatch has got some issues. Its done 300K and not long I had to change its timing belt and i was told that water pump is leaking and it require an attention due to not having enough money I left it for a while till one day my radiator blew up. The top tank snapped near the radiator cap. I went and replaced my radiator ( bought a second hand one) I installed it myself and topped it up with some water and mostly coolant. After driving for a while temperature started climbing up and with in no time it was sitting all the way on high. I went to a local mechanic and he asked me to turn my heater on a full swing it might be air and this might fix it up but noting happened. brought my car home and after few days I tried to take it to mechanic to get it checked this time I realized that neither my heater nor air con is working. There is no current in the dash (even demister is switch is not working).
When the car is in idle temperature doesn't rise (not that quickly). when I am driving it suddenly starts rising and within no time it hits high.
The upper hose from the radiator stays hot while the lower hose stays cold.
I have checked all the fuses inside the car and outside under the bonnet.
I have tested out my fan motor by taking current from battery and that works ok
I went to a local mechanic and he told me that there is no drama's with head gasket. Its an electrical problem. I have been told and some reseach that fans are only used when the car is stopped to keep the air flowing but if its running there shouldn't be an issue.
I have also bleed my radiator.
Now am not sure what to do. Should I take to another mechanic or should I head to electrician.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers
Sheenzy
Honda Civic EG 94 Radiator/ Electrical issues.?
Thermostat does not open when hot.(upper hose hot,lower hose cold).
Honda Civic EG 94 Radiator/ Electrical issues.?
you have to check the coolant flow .make shire you rad is not plugged ore your t/stat is stuck closed.it sounds like you have more than one problem.when you are driving and air is passing the rad it should cool the engine if it doesn`t you have bad or no flow.also if the engine was over heated very bad you could have internal engine damage.go to a good mechanic .spend some diagnostic time and get it checked out.no sense putting more money in the car if the engine is garbage
When the car is in idle temperature doesn't rise (not that quickly). when I am driving it suddenly starts rising and within no time it hits high.
The upper hose from the radiator stays hot while the lower hose stays cold.
I have checked all the fuses inside the car and outside under the bonnet.
I have tested out my fan motor by taking current from battery and that works ok
I went to a local mechanic and he told me that there is no drama's with head gasket. Its an electrical problem. I have been told and some reseach that fans are only used when the car is stopped to keep the air flowing but if its running there shouldn't be an issue.
I have also bleed my radiator.
Now am not sure what to do. Should I take to another mechanic or should I head to electrician.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Cheers
Sheenzy
Honda Civic EG 94 Radiator/ Electrical issues.?
Thermostat does not open when hot.(upper hose hot,lower hose cold).
Honda Civic EG 94 Radiator/ Electrical issues.?
you have to check the coolant flow .make shire you rad is not plugged ore your t/stat is stuck closed.it sounds like you have more than one problem.when you are driving and air is passing the rad it should cool the engine if it doesn`t you have bad or no flow.also if the engine was over heated very bad you could have internal engine damage.go to a good mechanic .spend some diagnostic time and get it checked out.no sense putting more money in the car if the engine is garbage
Why does my cars engine get so hot but the temp gauge does not??
a %26quot;mechanic%26quot; friend of mine noticed that my lower radiator hose looks like it sprays out coolant while im driving but not when the car is parked (answering my question of why i lose coolant but never see a drop on the ground) he says fixin it will make my engine not get so hot...i kind of don't think thats all that needs to be fixed...When i drive my dashboard temp gauge stays almost to C unless i have to idle for a long time or stuck in traffic but my engine gets insanely hot.. even when I got its oil changed last month the guy said WOW ur engine is too hot.. Any ideas why the engine gets soo hot and the gauge doesnt tell me? Im gettin the spark plugs and wires (they are horribly worn) and the lower radiator hose replaced friday and i had a radiator flush. I always check to see if there is coolant and i add it as needed.
Why does my cars engine get so hot but the temp gauge does not??
The coolant temperature sensor or temp sending unit could be faulty. This switch measures the temperature and sends a signal to the computer to tell the guage where to go. Usually they range from 10-50 dollars. However it could also be the thermostat not opening to allow the coolant through. Though if it was the thermostat you should have noticed an overheating problem a lot more often.
Fixing the lower hose may also fix the problem as the water flow will be restored allowing the cooling system to actually cool your engine by cyling the water all the way through the system.
Why does my cars engine get so hot but the temp gauge does not??
Coolant temperature sensor could be bad...
There could be a bad ground (many late models need the grounds), the sensor or guage could be bad ,
if the engine is hot but the water is not, check the thermostat
temporarily remove it if not, check water pump
Hi,
Please check the following
1.Thermostat
2.Water pump
3.temperature sensor
4.All drive belts
Why does my cars engine get so hot but the temp gauge does not??
The coolant temperature sensor or temp sending unit could be faulty. This switch measures the temperature and sends a signal to the computer to tell the guage where to go. Usually they range from 10-50 dollars. However it could also be the thermostat not opening to allow the coolant through. Though if it was the thermostat you should have noticed an overheating problem a lot more often.
Fixing the lower hose may also fix the problem as the water flow will be restored allowing the cooling system to actually cool your engine by cyling the water all the way through the system.
Why does my cars engine get so hot but the temp gauge does not??
Coolant temperature sensor could be bad...
There could be a bad ground (many late models need the grounds), the sensor or guage could be bad ,
if the engine is hot but the water is not, check the thermostat
temporarily remove it if not, check water pump
Hi,
Please check the following
1.Thermostat
2.Water pump
3.temperature sensor
4.All drive belts
Repairs and Maintenance - Honda Accord 1998 - Gasket or Radiator - Overheating?
I have 1998 Honda Accord which had overheating problem couple of weeks back and the mechanic did change the back hose and did the coolant flush and refill. Then it started working fine but yesterday, I noticed some thick yellow liquid coming out of the radiator/tube from coolant box to radiator.... the mechanic says it is the head gasket and coolant/radiator problem and he is willing to change it for whooping 3000$... that's too much...any opinion how much this repairs should cost and shall i consider selling it off for another one...
Repairs and Maintenance - Honda Accord 1998 - Gasket or Radiator - Overheating?
A mechanic,self employed makes his prices according to his/her discretion. If that is his price,that is his choice.That is why it is advisable to get a second opinion. ME, I seem to think that to be high, but, he has seen the problem and has more info than we do.
%26quot;BRILLIANT%26quot;!!!!
Repairs and Maintenance - Honda Accord 1998 - Gasket or Radiator - Overheating?
3000 buck you could get another motor parts and installation for that price for head gaskets you may be looking st 1400.00 tops unless you have a cylinder head cracked or something i would shop around and get a second opinion (IN WRITING) and don't be shy ask questions its your business and money that keeps shops open.
hi.. this vehicles water pump wears out and not able to pump enough water to circulate. very common problem with 98 models. take it to the dealer to tell you thesame. if the heads are not blown yet you still have time and will cost you less to repair. if blown, oil should show in the coolant or coolant will show with oil..plus radiator hose being blown too, depends how much blown the head is.. get a second opinion from another shop about a blown head gasket ..and also make sure the radiator fan is working correctly. good luck.hair treatment formal hair
Repairs and Maintenance - Honda Accord 1998 - Gasket or Radiator - Overheating?
A mechanic,self employed makes his prices according to his/her discretion. If that is his price,that is his choice.That is why it is advisable to get a second opinion. ME, I seem to think that to be high, but, he has seen the problem and has more info than we do.
%26quot;BRILLIANT%26quot;!!!!
Repairs and Maintenance - Honda Accord 1998 - Gasket or Radiator - Overheating?
3000 buck you could get another motor parts and installation for that price for head gaskets you may be looking st 1400.00 tops unless you have a cylinder head cracked or something i would shop around and get a second opinion (IN WRITING) and don't be shy ask questions its your business and money that keeps shops open.
hi.. this vehicles water pump wears out and not able to pump enough water to circulate. very common problem with 98 models. take it to the dealer to tell you thesame. if the heads are not blown yet you still have time and will cost you less to repair. if blown, oil should show in the coolant or coolant will show with oil..plus radiator hose being blown too, depends how much blown the head is.. get a second opinion from another shop about a blown head gasket ..and also make sure the radiator fan is working correctly. good luck.
Has anyone changed the coolant of '96 Renault Laguna? Where in the radiator are the coolant hoses attached to?
check at the bottom, some have drain plugs -tap. if not let the bottom hose off,well any hose at the bottom which has water..Watch out for an air lock-when refilling.
Has anyone changed the coolant of '96 Renault Laguna? Where in the radiator are the coolant hoses attached to?
Have you opened the hood to look? One's on top of the radiator and the other is on the bottom! The top hose goes to the thermostat housing while the bottom goes to the water pump. Doesn't matter if it's a Renault or a Mack Superliner!
Has anyone changed the coolant of '96 Renault Laguna? Where in the radiator are the coolant hoses attached to?
Check the manual. It should have a diagram.
Top and bottom then to eng housings.
why do you want to change the coolant but look on the bottom of your rad there should be a drain plug or tap
Has anyone changed the coolant of '96 Renault Laguna? Where in the radiator are the coolant hoses attached to?
Have you opened the hood to look? One's on top of the radiator and the other is on the bottom! The top hose goes to the thermostat housing while the bottom goes to the water pump. Doesn't matter if it's a Renault or a Mack Superliner!
Has anyone changed the coolant of '96 Renault Laguna? Where in the radiator are the coolant hoses attached to?
Check the manual. It should have a diagram.
Top and bottom then to eng housings.
why do you want to change the coolant but look on the bottom of your rad there should be a drain plug or tap
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
The reason I know it was 10w30 was because it was on receipt. I had asked them to use High Mileage 50W because that is what I have used for two years now. And I am very good about getting the oil changed withing the time limit suggested. I have always taken very good care of my car. It is a 1992 Mercury GM and has been in excellent condition with only 121,000 miles. I know that is a lot of mileage, but not for that old of a car. Anyway, I told the car repair shop exactly what it was doing, shouldn't they have been able to tell it was something other than a radiator hose ? And would going from a high mileage 50W oil to a 10W30 oil cause it to overheat ?
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
actually using thicker oil than whats called for by your owners manual is killing your engine.I'm surprised you haven't replaced an oil pump yet,or you simply omitted to mention that. the oil helps a little bit in cooling but its primary job is lubrication.if the hose has developed a leak or is getting old it will drip fluid out of the cooling system,and will cause your car to overheat.how old are the hoses? if their original,the hoses may be doing whats called %26quot;sweating%26quot; and losing the coolant through evaporation,which would leave no sign of dripping,but would still lower the coolant level,and the cooling systems effectiveness.
In Answer to Question on Oil Weight?
the engine use the oil not only for lubrication but, also for cooling purposes
the oil pump force the oil through the gallery in the engine.with pressure and Speed. (the thicker the oil ,the higher the pressure and lower the speed)
high viscosity oil is producing(by not removing it) more heat
because, the oil gallery restrict the oil speed and also modern engine depend a lot in oil speed.
when the speed of the oil in the engine gallery is too slow then hot spots form in the engine sub secuently warpage might overcome and burned oil (might turn rock) start clogging the gallery.
unfortunated,the clogging always start forming in the most need it areas of lubrication.
1992 Mercury GM? No doubt your car was designed to run on either 5W30 or 10W30. Who told you to run 50W oil? 121000 miles isnt high mileage if you take care of it but running 50W oil isnt helping it any. If its over heating it is probably caused by something else like maybe a stuck thermostat.
your question starts out oil and ends up overheating. YOU NOW NEED TO GET GOOD MECHANICAL HELP. Switching from 20/50 oil to 10/30 oil will not cause overheating. Might make more motor noise on start up. Get the thermostat and radator tested. then procede to more expensive things. Some of the Ford engines have plastic intake manifolds that crack around where the thermostat and top hose hooks up. Good luck %26quot;CARNAK SEES NEW CAR IN YOUR FUTURE%26quot;
no it wouldn't make it over heat. summer time you run a heavier oil weight because the heat will break the viscosity of the oil and damage your engine. winter time you use a lighter weight oil because it will make it a lot harder on the battery and starter turning the engine over to start.
Cooling system for 1998 Dodge caravan?
i've changed both upper and lower hoses however radiator still needs about a quart of water daily. my only other guess is %26quot;heater core%26quot;, or %26quot;bypass hose%26quot;, or heater hoses. owner states that last heater was used windows fogged inside.
Cooling system for 1998 Dodge caravan?
These vans are famous for the rear heater tubes to rot out and leak, if it has rear heat then pressure test, ,,, as a matter of fact pressure test and see what is leaking
Cooling system for 1998 Dodge caravan?
These vans are famous for the rear heater tubes to rot out and leak, if it has rear heat then pressure test, ,,, as a matter of fact pressure test and see what is leaking
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon 3 speed Automatic 2.0 whatever, and the fan almost never stops, when it does, it's for 10 seconds and starts up again. The air condition is great, but it sweats like crazy, I can see puddles accumulate under the car when it sits. I just changed the upper radiator hose and the car's running nice, like it got more power, the old hose was almost twice the size of the new one, the old one finally burst. Now there's a slight hissing out of the engine over by the belts where the hose busted. The Timing belt busted about 7 months ago and the mechanic says that one of the piston rings won't work right, nut that the car'll run. The check engine lights on and I checked it, misfire on one. It goes away and comes back sporadically. I've tried high octane gas, low ocatne, 5-30, 10-40 and 20-50 oil, synthetic, blend and regular, injector cleaners, but nothing keeps it from coming back. The longest the light stayed off was when I changed the plugs.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
I've been told that i need a new timer, do I? and misfire in 1 that isn't constant, what do you think/
Use a ohm meter to check your sparkplug wire, or us a spark tester between the wire and plug. Sounds like bad wire or coil.
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
My car was leaking antifreeze and I changed the lower radiator hose because thats where it seemed to be coming from. After driving with the new hose the problem was still there. I came to find out that its the plastic lower radiator hose housing that has a hole in it. It seems to have only two small bolts that hold it on the block. I was thinking since I dont have the time right now to go find the part if I should remove it and try to just put gasket sealant inside to cover the hole or maybe some JB weld or something like that. Will it hold? is it safe and a good idea?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.mentally ill person blue hair
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
Plastic parts are very hard to patch/glue, save yourself the hassle and just buy a new part. You say you don't have time to find the part, do you have time to be broke down on the side of the road because you tried to do a cheap fix?
Will this hold untill I can repair it?
J.B. Weld may work if the area is clan and dry and you let it sit for 24 hours to dry before putting antifreeze back in.
The best bet would be just to find a new radiator at a junk yard.
to risky you could bust your motor , wait till you have the time to make a proper repair
a leak will only get worse.
Try a waterproof epoxy, quick dry
J-B weld takes 24 hours to cure
I am not sure where the problem is, sounds like a lower water neck type of thing, or part of the water pump.
Any way, I would be tempted to get a self drilling screw to run into it with a washer and sealer on it. I am not sure it would work due to the location and shape of the parts.
Just a patch of rubber with string wrapped around it might work too if bound tight.
If you wait longer. You risk overheating the engine then you will need those parts plus another engine and maybe a transmission. Fix it or leave the car at home %26amp; take the bus or get a ride.
What is wrong with this car?
1996 mazda 626 lx automatic ok coming home from work it started acting like it wanted to die then the heat hand went to hot hot then it really started to die i pulled over opened the hood steaming of course then it quit the upper radiator hose was busted that is ok but the alternator bracket also broke why did it break and there is a belt also that was missing the one from the engine to alternator i think what is it called also if ya can help why did the bracket break and which belt is it also i just changed the lower radiator hose 2 weeks ago why is the hose busting for it is just a work car but it has been a good one does not want to get rid of it thanks in advance
What is wrong with this car?
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
What is wrong with this car?
sounds like the alt bracket broke and that caused the belt for fan to stop and made it overheat.
What is wrong with this car?
thermostat was stuck closed and could not handle the pressure
i am sure the belt broke the alternator bracket. i don't know if your car has a separate belt for your alternator or not...the parts store can tell you that.
ok here's what may have happened,the alternator bracket broke(they just do that sometimes) taking out all the belts including the one that runs your water pump,when the pump quit working the car got hot very quickly and blew the hose,as far as your hose issues often when you fix one leak in an older cooling system it will seek out the next weakest spot to blow out,I would check to make sure you didn't blow the head gasket before you put too much money in this car
sounds like you have a canooter valve problem
bracket broke and caused the rest of the problems/should have changed all the hoses/make sure you change t/stat and probably w/pump/those w/pumps separate when they are o/heated
Alisha
The name of the part you are asking is called the alternator bracket and its designed to hold the alternator in place where it belongs.
In the old school cars the alternator is often held by two long bolts,the first one is the pivot bolt and the last one is the adjustment bolt which keeps the belt tension at the spot where its supposed to be to keep it tight.
Your car also needs this bracket to keep the belt tension constant,and while you are at it you would be better off having it towed to a reputable shop and ask them to repair everything that is broken and any missing parts that need to be replaced,don't forget the alternator bracket and tell them to order that part.
GOOD LUCK
Broken radiator part question?
i got a 95 suburban, my hubby was trying to change the oil and when he was reaching for the oil filter, he broke the part that you hook the hose to the radiator to. the part that sticks out from it. the part is plastic, and he tryed to use some kind of glue you mix then let it set for 30 min, then put it on what you want to glue. i was wondering if i will have to get a new radiator, or if it is a part i can buy to replace it with out having to buy a new radiator?
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
Broken radiator part question?
got to a junk yard and get a used one they are about 40 bucks
Broken radiator part question?
Due to the temperature extremes on these radiators,
the only real remedy is to get a different radiator.
There is just no glue you can use to repair a broken
neck as they just won't hold for long.
Other than a new one you might be able to find one
at a salvage yard. Those places have the interchange
books to know what other vehicles, and what years
would interchange with your model, so it adds to the
ability to find what you need.
There just isn't any special part that will repair, or
replace the broken piece other than a new top tank.
Some radiator shops can do that part, but the cost
would exceed what you would pay for a good one
from a salvage yard.
You'll need that side tank for your radiator or a complete radiator to fix it. Don't drive it as it is cause the cooling system has 15 psi %26amp; WILL leak from his patch.The good news is that a new radiator is less than $150.
from what you are describing it sounds like just the clamp on the hose. if thats it you can get a new, more durable, metal one at autozone for just a couple of dollars. if its just the clamp you should not have to replace the entire radiator. just go to autozone and buy a new one. should be a couple dollars and can be installed in just a couple of minutes
Heater Gauge in my 91 Acura Legend says engine overheating but Engine is cool! changed Thermostat & Water Hose?
The heater gauge says the engine is way hot but I can touch the engine with my hands. The upper water hose busted and replaced it. Lower Water hose doesn't heat up at all. Replaced thermostat. Still no change also the car heater only works randomly. Radiator is bubbling hot, when I open the cap the Antifreeze bubbles and overflows. Stil the engine is at operating temperature not overheating. What could be my problem? do I have a blown head gasket? or do I have a radiator problem? please help!
Heater Gauge in my 91 Acura Legend says engine overheating but Engine is cool! changed Thermostat %26amp; Water Hose?
It is definitely the water pump.
At the first part of the question, I thought of the temp. sending unit, but after I read the radiator is bubbling hot but the upper hose busting and the lower hose not getting hot, that tells me that there is no coolant circulating although the thermostat opens.
Replace the water pump before you do cause a head gasket leak. You will overheat the engine and possibly warp the heads.
REPLACE THE WATER PUMP!
Heater Gauge in my 91 Acura Legend says engine overheating but Engine is cool! changed Thermostat %26amp; Water Hose?
You probably have a dead water pump.
Sorry Bud, Bubbling antifreeze should be head gasket. Does the exhaust smell sweet and or white smoke? The head gasket will go out when you have an over heat situation like the rad hose busting on you.
Heater Gauge in my 91 Acura Legend says engine overheating but Engine is cool! changed Thermostat %26amp; Water Hose?
It is definitely the water pump.
At the first part of the question, I thought of the temp. sending unit, but after I read the radiator is bubbling hot but the upper hose busting and the lower hose not getting hot, that tells me that there is no coolant circulating although the thermostat opens.
Replace the water pump before you do cause a head gasket leak. You will overheat the engine and possibly warp the heads.
REPLACE THE WATER PUMP!
Heater Gauge in my 91 Acura Legend says engine overheating but Engine is cool! changed Thermostat %26amp; Water Hose?
You probably have a dead water pump.
Sorry Bud, Bubbling antifreeze should be head gasket. Does the exhaust smell sweet and or white smoke? The head gasket will go out when you have an over heat situation like the rad hose busting on you.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
1999 dodge caravan 3.3l 137000 miles just started 2 days ago the light comes on only while hot and idling in gear at a stoplight or in the FREAKIN construction zone when the interstate is like a parking lot. Changed oil and filter same result. Where is oil sending unit? Is it next to the oil filter on left by lower radiator hose? I will change this before accepting that another major repair is needed on this American made piece of crap NEVER NEVER buy a dodge
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
Some Chrysler cars have a problem with the sending unit wire, if you have a one wire connector, you may need a connector that has two wires, the extra wire lets the atmospheric pressure equalize. I just had a Intrepid that did the same thing as your car.The breather on the one wire connector was clogged with dirt. There is a service bulletin, And I got a new connector wire from my local dealer, it fixed the problem. I don't know if it applies to your car or not, and I don't know what your actual oil pressure is, but if the engine is in good shape and not knocking or making noise, it may fix it. Call your local Dodge dealer and tell them what your car is doing, and ask about a bulletin.
Oil idiot light coming on at hot idle?
I love dodge. MOPAR goes far
go to a oil change place and get them to take the light off
easy now...you got 137k on it and it's still running...so not a piece of crap. most likely your oil sending unit is leaking. It is located next to the oil filter. simply crawl under the car and look at the sending uinit...you will most likely see oil on it. replace it and you will be fine.
Had a eagle vision...same as a dodge intrepid...and it had the same problem...changed the sending unit and fixed the problem.
Look around you and see how many of these vehicles are on the road...then can you really say a piece of crap...you have a good vehicle there...maintain it and it will give you another 137k of service.
well your first problem is
ITS A DODGE
but really
replace oil pressure sending unit with original equipment replacement oil pressure sending unit. When replacing be sure to blow out electrical connection with air gun, add a small bit of di electric grease. PLUG and DUN.
this is a very typical problem
the sending unit is located lower left of oil filter
your also gonna need a special socket
possibly 1 1/8 oil pressure sending unit socket
you can get it at any parts store
Your oil is thinning out at high temp causing a drop in oil pressure. that makes the light come on . Ask yourself why is it getting hot ? yea I know you already did that . Any well maintained cooling system will keep your car running at optimum temp in the worst of conditions. flush the cooling system ,add new anti-freeze , change the thermostat , make sure the timing is accurate( too advanced or retarded will make it run hot) . take a hose and wash the crud out of the radiator core. If you get the temp to stay where its suppose to , the light will leave you alone.
first thing i would do is check the sending unit(it should be right by the oil filter)if its not that then its probably the oil pump.
Are you using the right type of oil for your car as per the makers spec, do not use cheap brands always buy the good stuff.
if the car has a high milage it could bethe engine starting to wear, but if light out during driving and the oil is clean and the right type the ngine may last a few more years.
Changing head / Coolant question...?
Changing the head in a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Has the infamous crack... My question:
If I pull the bottom hose off the radiator will it drain the block enough for me to get the head off? Should I pull the hose and run it for a minute or two with the heater on? Any advice is appreciated!
Changing head / Coolant question...?
I just did the head gasket last week on my 99 cherokee 4.0L I6. Taking the lower hose off and letting it run out was enough for me. If you have any questions on taking the head out let me know. Taking the bottom row of bolts off the exhaust/intake manifold is a PITA (i just pulled out the head and manifolds together). Also, the head bolt closest to the firewall is gona be a pain to take out (you have to cut around the firewall lip of lower the engine off the mounts an inch or two). Good luck, take your time and have fun with it.
Changing head / Coolant question...?
As long as the other end of hose(water pump) is lower than the head it will drain to that point.
yes just pull the bottom hose dont really need to run it though can if you want just dont run it for more than 30 seconds though
save some trouble and drain the radiator, disconnecting the water inlet hose will drain the radiator anyway, won't take much to get coolant level below head gasket
When someone asks a question like this and doesn't realize that the drain plug on the radiator is LOWER than the lower radiator hose, I wonder how they will pull and change a head, not an easy job even for an experienced mechanic.
Good luck.i near a way to run mac within window remove brontok
If I pull the bottom hose off the radiator will it drain the block enough for me to get the head off? Should I pull the hose and run it for a minute or two with the heater on? Any advice is appreciated!
Changing head / Coolant question...?
I just did the head gasket last week on my 99 cherokee 4.0L I6. Taking the lower hose off and letting it run out was enough for me. If you have any questions on taking the head out let me know. Taking the bottom row of bolts off the exhaust/intake manifold is a PITA (i just pulled out the head and manifolds together). Also, the head bolt closest to the firewall is gona be a pain to take out (you have to cut around the firewall lip of lower the engine off the mounts an inch or two). Good luck, take your time and have fun with it.
Changing head / Coolant question...?
As long as the other end of hose(water pump) is lower than the head it will drain to that point.
yes just pull the bottom hose dont really need to run it though can if you want just dont run it for more than 30 seconds though
save some trouble and drain the radiator, disconnecting the water inlet hose will drain the radiator anyway, won't take much to get coolant level below head gasket
When someone asks a question like this and doesn't realize that the drain plug on the radiator is LOWER than the lower radiator hose, I wonder how they will pull and change a head, not an easy job even for an experienced mechanic.
Good luck.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Some basic info first: 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8 S/1.8 Liter
80,000 miles. Live in South Florida (it it matters).
The engine won't cool. When I am driving slow or in idle I see it move to the exterme high (hot) end. Then it comes back down to normal. Up and down.
I was driving on the interstate today the temp gague went to high and the engine lost power. First it bucked a little causing the check engine light to come on. It didn't stall, but was close to it.
I believe the problem is somewhere in the cooling system.
If you care I will give a little more detail:
A brief history, it may help to understand the point I am trying to make. About 8 months ago or so I began noticing the A/C wasn't cooling all of the time as it should. It was blowing almost warm air. It wasn't as cold as it should have been.
About 4 months things started happening. The temp. gauge started to go up as the engine was getting hot. It got very high, so I pulled over and waited for it cool down some. The coolant in the reserve tank was boiling. I did this about 4 times (Each time the coolant was boiling) trying to get home. About 10 minutes later I was driving and things looked ok then it got hot again and the engine buck a little causing the check engine to come on. At that time the car lost power. It didn't stall, just lost power. I pressed on the gas and nothing. I notice the RPM was flicking between 2K and 3K. I pulled over turned off the car for a few minutes. Afterwards it started up and ran fine. By the time I got home the engine lost power 2 times-each time I had to pull over and wait. All of the time I pulled over the coolant in the reserve was boiling and of course the temp gauge was hot.
When I made it home I waited until it cool down. There was no coolant in the radiator. It was bone dry. There weren't any leaks anywhere and never was. Nothing was sprayed on to the engine. The reserve tank was in between the min a max line. I filled the radiator with coolant. Afterwards it was fine. It wasn't getting hot anymore. My AC was even working fine after that. It's blowing cold air like it should.
About 2 months ago I was driving and the temp gage started moving again. I was at a red light and the high pressure (top radiator hose) hose popped off. I was able to put it back on and the coolant in the reserve tank started to boil again. But now the reserve tank is over the max line. The radiator was dry again. I put in more coolant and like the last time it seemed to had fix the problem. Still no leaks. A week after that the temp gage goes up and down. It goes high in idle or slow driving, back down at normal speeds. Sometimes the AC becomes warm when the temp goes up.
3 weeks ago I got the raditor and cooling system flushed by professionals. The next couple of days nothing was going on with the temp. After 3 of 4 days it started up again---up and down goes the temp gage. About 2 weeks ago, after experience some of the same problems the engine almost stalled out. I turned off the car and restarted it and it ran fine. After it cooled for awhile the top radiator pressure hose was flatten- squezzed together. That happened once. Even since that time it appears to be normal.
For the past month: After I turn off the car I can hear coolant in the high pressure (top of radiator) hose trying to escape. It is a bubbling type sound in the hose. The coolant in the reserve tank smokes when the lid is taken off, but it isn't boling liked it did. Also, it is above the max line. After awhile the coolant will go below the min line. The hotter it is outside the more problems it'll have.
P.S.-- The check engine light usually goes off by itself after 3 days or up to a week. When the engine gets high and bucks the light comes back on.
I was thinking about getting a new hose and changing the thermostat. What can be the problem? Thanks again for reading.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
The thermostat would have been the first thing I would have replaced at the very first sign of overheating. It's a lot cheaper than replacing an engine.
First you need to do a compression check. This is necessary to make sure you still have a good engine.
Then do a cooling system pressure check.
Then if those two check out, replace the thermostat and radiator hoses.
Refill the coolant using the proper fill procedure to eliminate air bubbles in the system and do a pressure check.
One more thing.
Check the fan.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Well, that means that something is punctured and your coolant is leaking out. I wouldn't be able to tell from here, but you should take it to the shop as soon as possible and get the part replaced. Don't simply try to patch it up, because if you do, it'd only be temporary. Did you try adding more coolant in there? See any leaks?
It could be the hose, or it could be the radiator. See if you can see any signs on a leakage or previous leakage when you look under your hood.
u can only change thermostat and make sure cooling fan coming on check drive belts [if it drives water pump ] but i woul say you have blown the head gasket or cracked cylinder head because not rectified straight away when problem started [hope just thermostat but doubt it]
you hav eather a bad radiator notalowing enough coolant trew (not so likely) most likely is the water pump ac will have nothing to do with it overheating except when the ac is on ur engin runs just a lil hotter(ac condencer getting warm) but you need to start it up when its cold with the radiator cap off sit there n rev it up from 800 rps to 2 or 3000 rpms watch the water if you see it go up and down quick the pump is usually working somthing isnt alowing the proper amout of water to flow so try 1 or both of them parts
It sounds to me like your thermostat is severely stuck. It's a very easy thing to replace and they usually only run about $5. If that doesn't fix it, your water pump is blown out, in which case you need to get that replaced as soon as possible before you blow out your motor. A leaking cooling system would not cause the engine to overhead this bad. Have you checked to make sure that there is coolant in the system?
Watch this, I'm going to read your mind . . .
This is related to that squealing noise you're hearing sometimes after you start your car.
You've got a bad water pump and the coolant is leaking, actually it sounds more like running, out of the weeping hole.
The warm A/C is a common symptom of a car that's overheating. That brings me to my next point, STOP OVERHEATING YOUR ENGINE!!! It can, and will, cause permanent, irreversible engine damage. It wouldn't be uncommon at all to seize your entire engine as you drive it with the temp gauge in the red and that'd mean it's time for a new car. Next time your temp gauge gets near the red, pull over and turn off the engine immediately! The check engine light and the bucking and loss of power are all death throes, you were VERY close to ruining that engine over a $300 water pump repair. You've likely damaged your head gasket and possibly valve cover gasket due to the repeated overheating too.
80,000 miles. Live in South Florida (it it matters).
The engine won't cool. When I am driving slow or in idle I see it move to the exterme high (hot) end. Then it comes back down to normal. Up and down.
I was driving on the interstate today the temp gague went to high and the engine lost power. First it bucked a little causing the check engine light to come on. It didn't stall, but was close to it.
I believe the problem is somewhere in the cooling system.
If you care I will give a little more detail:
A brief history, it may help to understand the point I am trying to make. About 8 months ago or so I began noticing the A/C wasn't cooling all of the time as it should. It was blowing almost warm air. It wasn't as cold as it should have been.
About 4 months things started happening. The temp. gauge started to go up as the engine was getting hot. It got very high, so I pulled over and waited for it cool down some. The coolant in the reserve tank was boiling. I did this about 4 times (Each time the coolant was boiling) trying to get home. About 10 minutes later I was driving and things looked ok then it got hot again and the engine buck a little causing the check engine to come on. At that time the car lost power. It didn't stall, just lost power. I pressed on the gas and nothing. I notice the RPM was flicking between 2K and 3K. I pulled over turned off the car for a few minutes. Afterwards it started up and ran fine. By the time I got home the engine lost power 2 times-each time I had to pull over and wait. All of the time I pulled over the coolant in the reserve was boiling and of course the temp gauge was hot.
When I made it home I waited until it cool down. There was no coolant in the radiator. It was bone dry. There weren't any leaks anywhere and never was. Nothing was sprayed on to the engine. The reserve tank was in between the min a max line. I filled the radiator with coolant. Afterwards it was fine. It wasn't getting hot anymore. My AC was even working fine after that. It's blowing cold air like it should.
About 2 months ago I was driving and the temp gage started moving again. I was at a red light and the high pressure (top radiator hose) hose popped off. I was able to put it back on and the coolant in the reserve tank started to boil again. But now the reserve tank is over the max line. The radiator was dry again. I put in more coolant and like the last time it seemed to had fix the problem. Still no leaks. A week after that the temp gage goes up and down. It goes high in idle or slow driving, back down at normal speeds. Sometimes the AC becomes warm when the temp goes up.
3 weeks ago I got the raditor and cooling system flushed by professionals. The next couple of days nothing was going on with the temp. After 3 of 4 days it started up again---up and down goes the temp gage. About 2 weeks ago, after experience some of the same problems the engine almost stalled out. I turned off the car and restarted it and it ran fine. After it cooled for awhile the top radiator pressure hose was flatten- squezzed together. That happened once. Even since that time it appears to be normal.
For the past month: After I turn off the car I can hear coolant in the high pressure (top of radiator) hose trying to escape. It is a bubbling type sound in the hose. The coolant in the reserve tank smokes when the lid is taken off, but it isn't boling liked it did. Also, it is above the max line. After awhile the coolant will go below the min line. The hotter it is outside the more problems it'll have.
P.S.-- The check engine light usually goes off by itself after 3 days or up to a week. When the engine gets high and bucks the light comes back on.
I was thinking about getting a new hose and changing the thermostat. What can be the problem? Thanks again for reading.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
The thermostat would have been the first thing I would have replaced at the very first sign of overheating. It's a lot cheaper than replacing an engine.
First you need to do a compression check. This is necessary to make sure you still have a good engine.
Then do a cooling system pressure check.
Then if those two check out, replace the thermostat and radiator hoses.
Refill the coolant using the proper fill procedure to eliminate air bubbles in the system and do a pressure check.
One more thing.
Check the fan.
What's wrong with my car? Can someone help to shine some light on the subject? Thanks for reading.?
Well, that means that something is punctured and your coolant is leaking out. I wouldn't be able to tell from here, but you should take it to the shop as soon as possible and get the part replaced. Don't simply try to patch it up, because if you do, it'd only be temporary. Did you try adding more coolant in there? See any leaks?
It could be the hose, or it could be the radiator. See if you can see any signs on a leakage or previous leakage when you look under your hood.
u can only change thermostat and make sure cooling fan coming on check drive belts [if it drives water pump ] but i woul say you have blown the head gasket or cracked cylinder head because not rectified straight away when problem started [hope just thermostat but doubt it]
you hav eather a bad radiator notalowing enough coolant trew (not so likely) most likely is the water pump ac will have nothing to do with it overheating except when the ac is on ur engin runs just a lil hotter(ac condencer getting warm) but you need to start it up when its cold with the radiator cap off sit there n rev it up from 800 rps to 2 or 3000 rpms watch the water if you see it go up and down quick the pump is usually working somthing isnt alowing the proper amout of water to flow so try 1 or both of them parts
It sounds to me like your thermostat is severely stuck. It's a very easy thing to replace and they usually only run about $5. If that doesn't fix it, your water pump is blown out, in which case you need to get that replaced as soon as possible before you blow out your motor. A leaking cooling system would not cause the engine to overhead this bad. Have you checked to make sure that there is coolant in the system?
Watch this, I'm going to read your mind . . .
This is related to that squealing noise you're hearing sometimes after you start your car.
You've got a bad water pump and the coolant is leaking, actually it sounds more like running, out of the weeping hole.
The warm A/C is a common symptom of a car that's overheating. That brings me to my next point, STOP OVERHEATING YOUR ENGINE!!! It can, and will, cause permanent, irreversible engine damage. It wouldn't be uncommon at all to seize your entire engine as you drive it with the temp gauge in the red and that'd mean it's time for a new car. Next time your temp gauge gets near the red, pull over and turn off the engine immediately! The check engine light and the bucking and loss of power are all death throes, you were VERY close to ruining that engine over a $300 water pump repair. You've likely damaged your head gasket and possibly valve cover gasket due to the repeated overheating too.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
I have a 94 Taurus. One of the little hoses on one of the two heat pipes is leaking antifreeze. I went to an auto place to get a replacement but they had different cuts of heat hose, one is pipe to water pump, another is Heater outlet Heater to pipe - cut to fit, another is Pipe to thermostat, another is Pipe to thermostat. These are all types of heat hoses (fits) that can be purchased for my car.
I have no idea which one it is as I'm trying to learn about cars and am very new to this stuff, as I understand a hose change isn't hard thus why I want to learn.
To give a description, the leak is on the right (driver) side of my car, the upper radiator hose connects into some part of the engine, on the back of this part is where the heat hoses are connected, one of those hoses are leaking. These hoses lead into the dash of the car (there's 2) and one is spraying antifreeze.
I'm thinking it may be pipe to water pump hose I need but just would like someone Else's opinion.
I took a picture, it's on the right driver side and the hose in question is circled in red, I know other other end (not visible in picture) connects to the actual heat pipe leading to the dash, I just need to know the circled device so I get the right hose, is that the water pump possibly?
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7727/鈥?/a>
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Looks like one of the hoses to the back of the intake manifold, if you look right below the hose that is circled there is another heater hose. If it were me I would go to a Ford dealer, the parts catalog will have a picture of all the hoses for the cooling system, then all you have to do is point at the right one. If none of the other hoses have been replaced you may want to think about replacing them all so your not doing this again in a few months.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Joe, take another picture from further back so I can see the entire engine, it is too close up to tell exactly what we are looking at. The water pump has a belt driven pulley on it, but I can't tell from the picture if that is what you are showing. Honestly your best bet is to drain the radiator and remove the hose and take it in to the parts store, then match it up to the ones they have to offer. It's coming off either way, lol.
I have no idea which one it is as I'm trying to learn about cars and am very new to this stuff, as I understand a hose change isn't hard thus why I want to learn.
To give a description, the leak is on the right (driver) side of my car, the upper radiator hose connects into some part of the engine, on the back of this part is where the heat hoses are connected, one of those hoses are leaking. These hoses lead into the dash of the car (there's 2) and one is spraying antifreeze.
I'm thinking it may be pipe to water pump hose I need but just would like someone Else's opinion.
I took a picture, it's on the right driver side and the hose in question is circled in red, I know other other end (not visible in picture) connects to the actual heat pipe leading to the dash, I just need to know the circled device so I get the right hose, is that the water pump possibly?
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7727/鈥?/a>
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Looks like one of the hoses to the back of the intake manifold, if you look right below the hose that is circled there is another heater hose. If it were me I would go to a Ford dealer, the parts catalog will have a picture of all the hoses for the cooling system, then all you have to do is point at the right one. If none of the other hoses have been replaced you may want to think about replacing them all so your not doing this again in a few months.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Joe, take another picture from further back so I can see the entire engine, it is too close up to tell exactly what we are looking at. The water pump has a belt driven pulley on it, but I can't tell from the picture if that is what you are showing. Honestly your best bet is to drain the radiator and remove the hose and take it in to the parts store, then match it up to the ones they have to offer. It's coming off either way, lol.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
I have a 94 Taurus. One of the little hoses on one of the two heat pipes is leaking antifreeze. I went to an auto place to get a replacement but they had different cuts of heat hose, one is pipe to water pump, another is Heater outlet Heater to pipe - cut to fit, another is Pipe to thermostat, another is Pipe to thermostat. These are all types of heat hoses (fits) that can be purchased for my car.
I have no idea which one it is as I'm trying to learn about cars and am very new to this stuff, as I understand a hose change isn't hard thus why I want to learn.
To give a description, the leak is on the right (driver) side of my car, the upper radiator hose connects into some part of the engine, on the back of this part is where the heat hoses are connected, one of those hoses are leaking. These hoses lead into the dash of the car (there's 2) and one is spraying antifreeze.
I'm thinking it may be pipe to water pump hose I need but just would like someone Else's opinion.
I took a picture, it's on the right driver side and the hose in question is circled in red, I know other other end (not visible in picture) connects to the actual heat pipe leading to the dash, I just need to know the circled device so I get the right hose, is that the water pump possibly?
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7727/鈥?/a>
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
The one you have pictured is apparently coming from the thermostat housing to the (cannot see the other end). Now...
This is the larger hose you have circled in red. It appears to be a radiator hose and not a heater hose. For example the heater hose will be the approximate diameter of a male human thumb. The radiator hose will be the approximate diameter of a Pepsi/Coke can (quite possibly a little smaller)
You need to be very specific about this as getting the wrong hose will not work.
I also suggest you discard the spring type clamp on this hose (both ends) and get a compression clamp (complete circular clamp, silver in color with a 5/16 {aka} 8 mm head screw on one side) to replace it. The spring type clamps have a very high failure rate and do cause leaks. Especially after they have been removed one time.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Easiest way is to remove the leaking hose. Take it with you to get the replacement.The technician can match both the diameter and length take the new hose home and install it.Buy new hose clamps with the hose as u may need to cut the old clamps to get them off
You have to tell us which hoses the auto parts place called them. I, for one, do not understand pipe to water pump or pipe to dash or any of that.
Your car like most cars has an upper and a lower radiator hose. The radiator being the black honey-comb looking thing at the front of the car, the one with a fan or two on it.
Your car also has an inlet and an outlet heater hose, and maybe a bypass hose.
One thing, what you circled in the picture is definitely not the water pump because the water pump has a pulley with a belt on it.
From the photo, that looks like the upper radiator hose. Both hoses going into the dash are heater hoses and should be the same.
take it off and take it in and show them what you need.
I have no idea which one it is as I'm trying to learn about cars and am very new to this stuff, as I understand a hose change isn't hard thus why I want to learn.
To give a description, the leak is on the right (driver) side of my car, the upper radiator hose connects into some part of the engine, on the back of this part is where the heat hoses are connected, one of those hoses are leaking. These hoses lead into the dash of the car (there's 2) and one is spraying antifreeze.
I'm thinking it may be pipe to water pump hose I need but just would like someone Else's opinion.
I took a picture, it's on the right driver side and the hose in question is circled in red, I know other other end (not visible in picture) connects to the actual heat pipe leading to the dash, I just need to know the circled device so I get the right hose, is that the water pump possibly?
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/7727/鈥?/a>
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
The one you have pictured is apparently coming from the thermostat housing to the (cannot see the other end). Now...
This is the larger hose you have circled in red. It appears to be a radiator hose and not a heater hose. For example the heater hose will be the approximate diameter of a male human thumb. The radiator hose will be the approximate diameter of a Pepsi/Coke can (quite possibly a little smaller)
You need to be very specific about this as getting the wrong hose will not work.
I also suggest you discard the spring type clamp on this hose (both ends) and get a compression clamp (complete circular clamp, silver in color with a 5/16 {aka} 8 mm head screw on one side) to replace it. The spring type clamps have a very high failure rate and do cause leaks. Especially after they have been removed one time.
The two heat pipes in a car, one of my hoses is leaking antifreeze, does the heat pipe connect to water pump?
Easiest way is to remove the leaking hose. Take it with you to get the replacement.The technician can match both the diameter and length take the new hose home and install it.Buy new hose clamps with the hose as u may need to cut the old clamps to get them off
You have to tell us which hoses the auto parts place called them. I, for one, do not understand pipe to water pump or pipe to dash or any of that.
Your car like most cars has an upper and a lower radiator hose. The radiator being the black honey-comb looking thing at the front of the car, the one with a fan or two on it.
Your car also has an inlet and an outlet heater hose, and maybe a bypass hose.
One thing, what you circled in the picture is definitely not the water pump because the water pump has a pulley with a belt on it.
From the photo, that looks like the upper radiator hose. Both hoses going into the dash are heater hoses and should be the same.
take it off and take it in and show them what you need.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
The heater went out in it. The thermostat and the heater core have been changed. The radiator fluid hase been changed. One hose get hot and the other stays cold. any idea why its not working?
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
Sounds like a bad heater control value.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
You might get away with having your cooling system flushed, there might be something that is plugging your heater core. A reverse flush my accomplish the same thing which you may be able to do by removing the hoses from the heater core and then using a garden hose turned on very little see if the water will come out the other side when you force the water in one side. If not there could be a problem with the heater core.
Your heater core maybe blocked. Sometimes this will happen if you use stop leak.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
Sounds like a bad heater control value.
1994 chevy blazzer no heater ?
You might get away with having your cooling system flushed, there might be something that is plugging your heater core. A reverse flush my accomplish the same thing which you may be able to do by removing the hoses from the heater core and then using a garden hose turned on very little see if the water will come out the other side when you force the water in one side. If not there could be a problem with the heater core.
Your heater core maybe blocked. Sometimes this will happen if you use stop leak.
Changing thermostat on 2004 kia optima?
i have a 2004 optima(4cyl) and i believe the thermostat is stuck closed cause its been overheating at idle so i let it get hot and i checked both radiator hoses and one was burning hot and the bottom one was cool enough for me to put my hand on it. so i was wondering if anyone could help me out and tell me where its located on my kia? thanks so much
Changing thermostat on 2004 kia optima?
Thermostats are usually situated at top hoses ends engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.msdn linux web hosting
Changing thermostat on 2004 kia optima?
Thermostats are usually situated at top hoses ends engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.
My hose is busted (honda civic 1998) pics included?
About 2 months ago my (heater bypass hose?) busted and spilled antifreeze all over. So i had the car towed and later replaced it myself from advance auto. I also filled up the radiator with water to replace what was lost. I didnt put in any antifreeze. It has driven fine, but i never found out why the hose busted. Now the hose in the same place looks soggy and im worried that it might break again. My question is what could be causing this? Should i get a radiator flush, or is this some kind of pressure issue?
Note: It isnt the thermostat because when i put on the heater it blows hot. Ive changed the radiator cap also. Below are pictures of the location of where im talking about...any advice would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks in advance
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac139/eroticakes/SL374344.jpg
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac139/eroticakes/SL374343.jpg
My hose is busted (honda civic 1998) pics included?
The hose itself looks OK. It looks like you have seepage from the end of the hose at the metal junction. It could be that you need a better hose clamp, but I'll bet that if you take the hose off you either have some very rough areas on the metal pipe the hose fits over or a hairline crack in the pipe. Very common on aluminum engines.
You'll need to drain the engine, remove the hose and take a good look at the pipe that fits in it. Smooth it with fine sandpaper to start and if you see any cracks it is time to visit a good radiator shop. (sometimes visible at the end of the pipe as a split, that under pressure and heat actually widens a cracked area further away from the end, that is not visible when it is cool.) A good radiator shop can braze the crack so it doesn't leak rather than you having to buy a (I'm sure) very expensive part.
Note: It isnt the thermostat because when i put on the heater it blows hot. Ive changed the radiator cap also. Below are pictures of the location of where im talking about...any advice would be GREATLY appreciated, thanks in advance
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac139/eroticakes/SL374344.jpg
http://i893.photobucket.com/albums/ac139/eroticakes/SL374343.jpg
My hose is busted (honda civic 1998) pics included?
The hose itself looks OK. It looks like you have seepage from the end of the hose at the metal junction. It could be that you need a better hose clamp, but I'll bet that if you take the hose off you either have some very rough areas on the metal pipe the hose fits over or a hairline crack in the pipe. Very common on aluminum engines.
You'll need to drain the engine, remove the hose and take a good look at the pipe that fits in it. Smooth it with fine sandpaper to start and if you see any cracks it is time to visit a good radiator shop. (sometimes visible at the end of the pipe as a split, that under pressure and heat actually widens a cracked area further away from the end, that is not visible when it is cool.) A good radiator shop can braze the crack so it doesn't leak rather than you having to buy a (I'm sure) very expensive part.
Where's the coolant water pump located on a 1999 Honda accord?
We've changed the hoses, and thermostat for the radiator. It still leaks coolant but we can't find out where it's leaking from.
Where's the coolant water pump located on a 1999 Honda accord?
Most likely your water pump is bad and leaking out of the weep hole on the pump, a water pump has a hole in it so when it goes bad water will start to leak water out of it.,The water pump is going to be on one end of the engine behind the timing belt cover , you wont be able to see it without pulling the cover. On most of these small cars the timing belt runs around the water pump.
Where's the coolant water pump located on a 1999 Honda accord?
Most likely your water pump is bad and leaking out of the weep hole on the pump, a water pump has a hole in it so when it goes bad water will start to leak water out of it.,The water pump is going to be on one end of the engine behind the timing belt cover , you wont be able to see it without pulling the cover. On most of these small cars the timing belt runs around the water pump.
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